Need help with my Axolotl.

Hi. I'm a new member. I joined as I took on an 11 year old, 25cm unwanted Axolotl. When he arrived his tank was in a disgusting state. He didn't have a name so have called him Gonzales.
I have never owned one before and know nothing about them. He came with stones that are small enough to eat but too big to pass. I have researched online to try and learn to give him the best life possible and have seen that sand should be used? I am from Rotorua, NZ, and I don't think the local pet shop people really know much about them as their's are on the same stones and said that they can be on stones not sand or tiny stones. As there was nothing but stones in the tank I asked should he have something for him to hide in etc and was told they don't need anything. Is that correct? Lastly but most importantly, he just spat out all of the food he came with, which is a square meat called Axolotl tucker. So I bought Axolotl pellets and he is not eating those. The pet shop said that if he has swallowed a stone his mouth would be open and it isn't. He looks fine so would you have any idea why he may not be eating.

Welcome to the forum!

11 years is a ripe old age for an Axolotl.

Stones have been shown to cause impaction/ issues in the digestive tract. Sand is easier for an Axolotl to pass, you can also keep your Axolotl on a bare bottom tank which makes it a lot easier to keep clean. Axolotls love hides and any areas they can retreat to for security and comfort. Never heard of 'Axoltol Tucker' I can imagine its probably not nutritionally complete, you've done right to get Axolotl pellets, you can also try earth worms as these are highly nutritious. It may just take time for your Axolotl to adjust to the pellets as its not his usual food. Give it the best part of a week of dropping the pellets in front of his face and I'm sure he will start snapping them up.

Can you post some pictures?

You will also want to be aware of the nitrogen cycle in your tanks water:

You will need a test kit to monitor your nitrogen cycle, because you have to check for levels of Ammonia, Nitrites, and NitrAtes. A lot of users on this forum use and recommend this test kit including myself: Welcome to API Fishcare: FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT These liquid test kits are far more reliable that the test strip versions. You can purchase the above from Amazon.

The cycling process can take from 3-6 weeks. For your tank to be cycled, a beneficial bacteria needs to be present to break down the Ammonia and Nitrites into Nitrates. Ammonia and Nitrites are lethal to Axolotl and are produced from your Axolotls waste and decomposing food. Nitrates are a less toxic by product. During cycling the beneficial bacteria will colonize your tanks surfaces such as substrate, ornaments, filter, and begin to feed on the Ammonia turning it into Nitrites, then bacteria will break down the Nitrites into Nitrates. The bacteria is known as a biofilter, as it filters the ammonia and nitrites into less harmful nitrates.

For info on Ammonia sources, 'fish-in cycles' or 'fish-less cycles' see the bellow links.

You can read up on the cycling process and the steps to take from these articles:
Caudata Culture Articles - Cycling
Caudata Culture Articles - Water Quality
How to Cycle a Fish Tank

For articles on housing, feeding, biology, health, read the articles within these websites:
Axolotls: The Fascinating Mexican Axolotl and the Tiger Salamander
Caudata Culture Axolotl Articles

If you have any other questions you can post them in one of the relevant areas in the Axolotl section of the forum: Beginner Newt, Salamander, Axolotl & Help Topics - Axolotls (<i>Ambystoma mexicanum</i>) at Caudata.org Newt and Salamander Portal

Thank you for the advice. I have read the articles on water cycling. He came in a bucket so I filled up his tank with dechlorinated water and in he went. I have an empty tank that is too small for him on a long term basis. If I do a cycling with that one to put him in so I can cycle his tank do you think he will survive the smaller tank?
So much for the pet shop, who sell Axolotl, telling me that I only need a ph kit.

Here are photos of Gonzalez. As you can see he has a bare tank which I find depressing hence the question earlier re things he may need!!

Yeah I wouldn't trust pet shop advice!

Small tanks aren't the best, they need room to move around.

You could cycle your current tank if it is larger, but I can see from the images that your substrate is small to large stones. These stones can easily be ingested and could cause impaction resulting in death. Any stones that are smaller than the Axolotls head could be ingested, its best if you do use gravel to use grains that are 1-3mm in size and they must be smooth and round so not to hurt the Axolotl if they are ingested. Otherwise just use fine grain sand. It would be safest to remove all these stones ASAP.

Read this article for more information on substrates:
Caudata Culture Articles - Aquarium Substrates

'Avoiding Impaction
Most fully aquatic caudates are gape-limited predators, meaning that they will eat anything that fits into their mouths. Thus the choice of substrate is an important issue, as some of the substrate can be gulped down while feeding. This ingestion can cause choking or gastrointestinal impaction. In caudates, impaction is often fatal, as the owner does not notice an issue until it is too late. Impaction should be treated by a veterinary professional. Axolotls and other large aquatic species are at particularly high risk.

'To decrease the risk of gastrointestinal impaction/obstruction, there are several options. If substrate is used in aquatic set ups, the size and type is dictated by the size and eating habits of the animals. Eliminating the use of substrate altogether is also a popular option. The use of sand is also utilized by many keepers. Many hobbyists layer their substrates with mixtures to keep the risky types buried from their animals. These options are discussed in more detail below.'

For information on housing read this article:
http://www.axolotl.org/housing.htm

'For the enthusiast, the accepted minimum size would be a 45 cm long aquarium (US 10 gallons) for one adult.'

He now has sand. The api ammonia tests are very low which is surprising. I dangled a worm in front of him and he ate the whole thing. So looks like worms it is then! The worm was approximately 3/4 the length of him so when or how often would I feed him again?

You will be able to judge how much to feed once you become accustom to his eating habits.

A couple of worms every other day is sufficient.

For the cycling, you will need to start seeing NirAtes to know that your cycle has begun to establish. You will see a rise in this order: Ammonia will appear once produced from the Axolotl waste, this will then convert into Nitrites, and then the final out come is the conversion to NitrAtes you should eventually be left with 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites and around 40< ppm of Nitrates which you can lower by doing 30-40% water changes. Keep reading the article on cycling so you make sure your Axolotls living conditions are optimal and healthy.

I just wanted to say thank you very much for your help. It is most appreciated.

No problem!