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Floating and white stuff on gills

Amanda1

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I bought my axolotl about two months ago I got two the first one is doing fine but my second one since I bought him liked to float I didn't think much about it till I got a book on keeping up with health and his aquarium, but lately I switched up his tank to a bigger one and he hasn't eaten in about 3 days. He just hangs on the top of the water and when I push him he floats back up against his will. I think he's overstressed but I'm also concerned about the white fuzz on his gills. The other axolotl is doing great and I've done the same stuff with her as I did for him. Please help, I was thinking of putting him in the fridge cause he could have gas but I don't want to make a mistake
 

AxolotlChris

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Fungus is usually due to poor water quality/temperature or a break in the slime coat.

I wouldn't fridge since its not likely needed at this stage.

Floating can be due to poor water quality, or constipation, I'm leaning more towards the possibility of poor water quality.

Are your Axolotls kept in the same tank? If not, are both tanks cycled?

What are the test results for ammonia, nitrite, nitrAtes, PH?
What is the tanks temperature?
 

Amanda1

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His water is always changed weekly and I have a filter he shares a tank with the other one and she is completely fine, the temp is always at 20 c or 64 f and if he isn't pooping I read fridging helps, especially with floating it could be gas. I always check the levels also I did run into changing the tank three times in the past month because I bought a new tank and the divider broke so I used the old tank, bought a bigger one with a new divider and then he stopped eating so I figured he must be over stressed. I'm just trying to figure out what to do to help fix whatever is wrong with him
 

AxolotlChris

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So what are the exact test results for anmonia, nitrite, nitrAte, and PH?

Its highly likely your tank isn't cycled which will inevitably cause stress and the fungus. It could be constipation that's causing floating but there's something not right with your water quality if he's developed fungus.

Post some images of your Axolotl and your test results
 

Amanda1

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His ammonia levels never went over 0.25 I never checked for anything else I was told not to worry about it being how often I cleaned their tanks. If I could start checking on more I will I just don't understand how he is and how the girl is being they are in the same tank she's completely fine. I just want to make him better and fix this .
 

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Donna001

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Sometimes one is more susceptible to disease than others, or will be the first to show symptoms. Resolving water quality issues will benefit all of your axolotls and help the one showing fungus.
As AxolotlChris says, pictures and test results please, as this will help people to diagnose your problems and offer appropriate solutions.
:happy:
 

AxolotlChris

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Your Axolotl does look quite thin, gills have shrunk a lot. It does seem to be a water quality issue, but there could be another issue.

I would make sure you test for all parameters, that way you know your tank is cycled. A cycled tank is a healthy tank.

I would get testing for all parameters, keep your Axolotl in a separate container with daily 100% water changes with dechlorinated water.
 

Skudo09

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To help solve this issue we need to first rule out water quality issues as many illnesses including the symptoms you have described and apparent in the photo provided are due to poor water quality. This is also important to help aid in recovery and the healing process regardless of whether or not water quality issues was the cause. To do this, investing in a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH is vital. Are you aware of the nitrogen cycle? If not it would be best to read up on it so you can gain a better understanding of the cycle, how it affects aquatic life and how to maintain the cycle. Here are a couple of links on water quality and cycling.

Caudata Culture Articles - Cycling

Caudata Culture Articles - Water Quality

Also, could you provide some more detail on the tank and diet? What substrate and other items are in the tank (or were in previous setups as well such as gravel etc)? What are you feeding your axolotls?
 

Amanda1

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I'm gonna go and buy a whole kit today, his tank is 20 gallons with a divider and I have both seperated both sides has a 10 gallon filter with a sponge, they have 3 fake plants, each have a Moss ball, two domes to hide in and they have sand for freshwater, I always buy spring water in jugs for their tank and I have only been checking for ammonia, I use to change their tanks every 3 days they were doing great but then when I got the filter they hated it at first but then got use to it. I now change weekly because they do have food hanging on the bottom of the tank and i prefer to get it completely cleaned. What steps should I take to help him? I have him in the fridge to see if it's gas related but what should I do about the white stuff on gills salt baths? Also I feed them the food they were provided everyday at 5 and then every 3 days I give bloodworms. He stopped eating 5 days ago now the girl is completely fine though and still eats
 

AxolotlChris

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When you were changing the tanks water every 3 days you were likely preventing a cycle from even starting, make sure to read the links Skudo gave as that will explain the cycle and how it functions.

You should try a siphon, that way you can be specific about sucking up any left over food on the bottom of the tank. I use the Fluval Edge siphon: EDGE Gravel Cleaner | 11057 | Maintenance | Fluval it works great.

Make sure you are 100% following the fridge guide: http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-beginner-newt-salamander-axolotl-help-topics/f48-axolotls-ambystoma-mexicanum/f58-sick-axolotl/85263-axolotl-fridging-guide.html be sure to keep the temperature no colder than 5 degrees Celsius and change the water everyday 100%.

Since the fungus is minor it should go away on its own, if it looks loose you can use a cotton bud to gentle wipe it to see if it will break away from the gills. Salt baths are highly irritating and stressful so are only recommended on severe cases.

What food were they provided?
 

Amanda1

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Yes I'm following the steps on fridging, I was given super pro grow food small pellets. How long should I keep him in the fridge because it's been two days and he's still floating it kinda worries me
 

Amanda1

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I just noticed on the girl axolotl her left side gills are shrinking, I guess clearly there must be a problem. What should I do?
 

Skudo09

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As soon as you get your test kit, test all the parameters and post the exact readings here. This will give us a better indication of water quality. Make sure you have a thorough read of the links I gave in my previous post as having a good understanding of water quality and the nitrogen cycle is very important.

It it also good to keep in mind that your axolotl will be unlikely to eat whilst in the fridge as the low temperature slows their metabolism.

For now, I would keep your other axolotl in a tub of fresh dechlorinated water, changing 100% of the water in the tub daily. Don't forget you will also need to change 100% of the water for the axolotl in the fridge using fresh dechlorinated water the same temperature so it is best to keep some in the fridge near or axolotl ready for the next change. in the meantime, you can focus on getting the water quality in the tank under control without worrying about your axolotls becoming more exposed to harmful toxins.

For food, I have not heard of those pellets before. Could you perhaps provide more detail of this food? It may be worth switching to a food such as earthworms. These are very nutritious and a very suitable staple diet. When you feed them, do you use a feeding dish, straight on the sand or by hand? It's best not to feed them directly on sand as this causes them to consume some sand each time they eat which can sometimes cause issues. It is best to use a feeding dish, by hand or use feeding tweezers.

Is there a particular reason you use spring water may I ask? This may or may not be contributing but I am just wondering is there a reason you don't use dechlorinated tap water?
 

Amanda1

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I haven't done anything other than put the other axolotl in a tub of clean water. I use spring water because I have well water where I live. The next photo is of their food and are they big enough to eat earthworms? And I actually haven't ever feed them food in a dish I always let it sit on the sand... I will change that. The next photo is all the test results to the right of the tube. I see the worst test result is the ph. Should I buy the drops to lower and higher ph?
 

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Amanda1

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I saw this at the store I haven't done anything but do you think this is good for the fungus?
 

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Skudo09

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Don't use fungus cure. The active ingredients include one that is toxic to axolotls. You must be very cautious when considering using medications bought over the counter at pet stores. Most of these are not tested on amphibians for safety and many are toxic to them. For mild fungal infections, good water quality and temperature may be enough to solve the problem. Have you tried gently brushing the fungus away with a cotton swab? Here is a link on fungus and also another couple of links on illnesses. Also below is a link to a very useful website on axolotl care. Be sure to give them a good read.

Axolotls: The Fascinating Mexican Axolotl and the Tiger Salamander

Caudata Culture Axolotl Articles

http://www.caudata.org/forum/f46-be...-axolotl-general-discussion/96018-fungus.html

Also, I would advise against using the chemical PH up and down additives. From what I can tell from your photos, the PH is not at a level to worry about. You have no presence of nitrate and my concern is your tank has not been given a chance to establish a cycle. I would monitor your parameters very closely.

They should be big enough for earthworms. You can always chop the worm into smaller chunks if needed. They may help to pass any sand that may be in their digestive tract that may (or may not) be contributing to the floating. They are also a very clean food source.
 

Amanda1

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I tried the swab it wouldn't come off, how long should I leave them out of the tank for? And yeah I'm having trouble understanding how the cycle of the tank works. When I clean it is completely take everything out and put it back in should I do it differently? And I made one mistake once of not keeping them in a bag with their water and sitting it in the new tank could that of caused over stress on them? And the girl axolotl her right gills are fine but the left is completely shrunken and one little spot of fungus
 

Skudo09

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In a nutshell, aquatic life creates waste (i.e. faeces, uneaten food). This waste turns into ammonia. A colony of bacteria feeds on ammonia and then convert it into nitrite. A different colony of bacteria feed on nitrite and convert it to nitrate. Nitrate is the end part of the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia and nitrite are very toxic to axolotls and other aquatic life. Nitrate is also toxic but less so and axolotls can tolerate low levels of nitrate. To keep nitrate at safe levels (below 40ppm), it is important to do regular water changes. You would usually do partial water changes (say 25% of the water each week or enough to reduce the nitrate to a safe level). However in an unicycled tank or whilst a tank is establishing a cycle, there is not enough bacteria to consume the ammonia created from the waste and so ammonia and nitrite levels (depending on what stage your tank is at in the cycling process) rise to potentially harmful levels. Cycling is the process of establishing these important colonies of good bacteria. In a cycled healthy tank, the readings should be 0ppm for both ammonia and nitrite and some reading of nitrate but kept below 40ppm.

There are two methods of establishing the cycle in a tank. You can do what is called a 'fish-in' cycle where you cycle the tank with your aquatic life (in this case, axolotls) in the tank (therefore the waste they produce is the ammonia source). The important thing to consider is that you risk potentially exposing your axolotls to harmful levels of ammonia and nitrite during the process if you are not diligent enough with water changes. You need to very closely monitor parameters and ensure that you are maintaining ammonia and nitrite levels at a safe level and do water changes as much as needed to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels at 0.25ppm.

The other method is called a 'fishless' cycling method. This involves using an alternative ammonia source and not keeping any aquatic life in the tank until the cycle is fully established. You would keep your axolotls in tubs (doing 100% water changes in the tubs daily) until the tank is fully cycled using an ammonia source such as pure ammonia or some sort of fish food. This way means you can crank up the ammonia and establish the cycle without worrying about exposing your axolotls to harmful levels of ammonia or nitrite during the process.

Now in regards to your situation specifically, I suspect that the cycle has not had a chance to establish properly given you routinely have been cleaning everything out thoroughly. When you do this, you are likely removing a lot of the good bacteria and interrupting the cycle trying to establish.

Sudden temperature changes can be stressful and acclimatising them is important. However I would doubt that one incident would have resulted in your current situation. If you are taking the axolotls out each time you are cleaning their tank, this could also be stressful for them, especially if doing this often.

Some have different methods. This is how I do regular water changes:

1. Have all your buckets and everything you need ready and at hand and test the parameters.

2. I remove the ornaments I have (just as they get in the way) and place them in buckets

3. Stir the sand up (this is good to do regularly to prevent noxious gas pockets building up in the sand)

4. I use a syphon to gently hover just above the sand to pick up debris (poo, dead plant material etc) but without sticking the syphon into the sand as this will suck up the sand. If you gently hover above without touching the sand you should be able to pick up most debris without taking out too much sand. Whilst syphoning into the buckets, I keep an eye on where my axolotls are so to avoid them as care must be taken not to accidentally syphon too close as syphons can cause injury. But as long as you are diligent, they don't usually cause issue.

5. Once I have removed enough water (I gauge how much to take out by what my test parameters were before the water change (so for example, if my nitrates were at 40ppm and I wanted to reduce it to 20ppm. I would need to remove 50% or half of the water), I very gently rinse out my filter media in the buckets of aquarium water (it is important to ensure that you don't rinse items in chlorinated water as the chlorine and other chemicals additives to tap water will kill off the beneficial bacteria and affect your cycle). I only rinse them very gently and I usually only rinse the filter every couple of weeks (different setups and filters may need different levels of maintenance).

6. Ornaments are returned to the tank and the tank is refilled with fresh dechlorinated tap water.

Have you noticed your floating axolotl has done a poo at all since?
 

Amanda1

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That helps a lot I'm gonna work on getting the tank set up right for them this time. And he's liked floating since I bought him but he could go back down when he wanted to, he ate alot, he went poo too, but since I bought the new tank he stopped eating completely and floated without being about to get back down and he hasnt went poo either since.
 
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