Raising new born axies, what to expect, how to plan?

Turbosaurus

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Hello all,
This is my first post. I have been keeping fish for 15 years. The last 5 or 6 breeding angels, keeping discus and; as of last count, 9 planted show tanks. I know the basics of what aquatic life needs to live, I understand TDS, GH, KH, pH and the relationship between them as well as the nitrogen cycle.

I know exactly squat about Axolotls yet find myself caring for 20 of these cute little buggers that hatched late last week. I am feeding microworms, bbs and grindal worms, depending on which culture is ready for harvest at any given moment.


I know the little guys are eating, because they have orange (or white) bellies. I have them in a low wide 2qt Tupperware container and I change about 80% of the water every morning. I am a little concerned that they just sit at the bottom of the box. The room is on average 68 degrees, the box is open and does not have a direct light source, so I would assume average water temp is somewhere around there.

QUESTION #1
Occasionally, if I use a finger to gently approach one they shoot away, only to come to rest again. They never seem to move. Is this sluggish behavior normal?

QUESTION #2
Once we determine if this is okay for now, when will I have to start planning on separating them- I have read about cannibalism in young axies- and how much space should I plan on for each?

QUESTION #3
I have a 20 long set up (30"x12"x12") that doesn't have any fish in it. Can I move them into this tank when they get a bit bigger? How much bigger? or would I be better served keeping them separated in smaller containers where it will be easier for them to catch their supper? The tank bottom is mostly sand, but does have a planted corner with aquarium gravel. Right now the gravel is bigger than the axies, at what size will I have to move them (or the gravel) if they do go in this tank?

QUESTION #4
How long do I have to keep up with only live food? when I wean them off it, would frozen bloodworms be best?

I know that some of these questions have complicated answers, but I am looking for a general time line so I can plan ahead.

Thank you
Paula
 
Q1: From my experience of raising them, this is entirely normal! Occasionally if the container gets knocked/nudged they zip round at full speed then come to sudden stop.

Q2: I separated our first batch of larvae when their back leg buds started growing in or when there were distinct size/growth differences.

I didn't really have a problem with cannibilism, it was more a case of legs or tails would get snapped at when the larvae were hunting the mosquitoe larvae/bloodworms and daphnia as they swam past. There were distinct size and growth differences and to err on the side of caution didn't want the smaller ones to become food for the larger ones, which were stronger and faster.

I basically kept them in the same size containers I'd been raising them in (2litre long icecream containers just increasing the amount of containers or separations as I needed them, decreasing the numbers in each container). This method for me at that time, being the first time I raised them, was far easier for me to maintain/clean and feed.

This time round I don't do as much as i did with my first batch = I have 10 each in 2 small tanks (12"square x 9"high), they're a few weeks old and only feed them daphnia, mosquitoe larvae and tiny live bloodworm - no substrate; spotclean daily.

Q3: That size tank should be fine initially, though I'd say remove the substrate completely while they're still little as it'll be much easier for feeding and cleaning. Generally within their first two weeks of hatching they become pretty good at catching their food, though you may have a few that lag behind. Any that have trouble or seem to be weaker/smaller or have problems can very easily be separated out to be looked after individually, if need be.

Q4: Livefood can be kept going indefinitely (depending on what you're feeding them). Brineshrimp soon gets ignored for bigger and better things (like daphnia, mosquitoe larvae, bloodworm or small earthworms or chopped up earthworm). Our adults are pretty much solely fed on earthworms, slaters (woodlice), garden snails and slugs or the occasional live bloodworm when the kids drop them in their tanks - they've never really taken to dead bloodworm (frozen bloodworm cubes). I started feeding our first batch of juveniles frozen bloodworm cube as soon as they had all their legs, and because their not all new owners have the time or patience to go in search of earthworms and the like. So much easier/convenient for some to just head to the petshop and buy frozen blocks or pellets! :D

My timeline changed from gauging by weeks (age they were) to gauging by growth and health when to split them, increase feedings, separate or upgrade to small temporary tanks) etc... Overall my first batch were about 2-3 inches when they went to their new owners (approx 3-4 months I think).
 
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  • Shane douglas:
    with axolotls would I basically have to keep buying and buying new axolotls to prevent inbred breeding which costs a lot of money??
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  • Thorninmyside:
    Not necessarily but if you’re wanting to continue to grow your breeding capacity then yes. Breeding axolotls isn’t a cheap hobby nor is it a get rich quick scheme. It costs a lot of money and time and deditcation
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  • stanleyc:
    @Thorninmyside, I Lauren chen
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