Caudata.org: Newts and Salamanders Portal

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Did you know that registered users see fewer ads? Register today!

Setting Up Axolotl Tank

chinlato

New member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Hi all, I used to keep axolotls in the past, although I've forgotten a couple things.

I have a Standard 3ft tank and a Standard 4ft tank.

I'm wanting to keep a couple axolotl in either tank, whichever is better.

I need to be reminded of the following info if possible.

*Water temperature

*Substrate ( is bare bottom stressfull for them?)

*Filter?

*Lighting?

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jacquie

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
1,849
Reaction score
48
Location
Melbourne, Australia
The optimum temperature range for axolotls is 14-18 degrees celcius. Axolotls will 'tolerate' temperatures up to 22C as long as the water quality is excellent (warmer water increases the toxidity of Ammonia). If the temperature hits 23C, it's time to start putting tank cooling tactics into effect. Temperatures 24C and above will cause stress to the axolotls, leading quickly to illness, and likely death.

Bare bottom tanks are by far the easiest to keep clean. Quite a few members of this site use bare bottom tanks and have no problems. Some axolotls may experience difficulties with traction on the slippery base of a bare bottom tank, and they can find this stressful. If this is the case (or you prefer the natural look) however, sand is also an excellent substrate, and makes for easy spot and removal of grot.

Axolotls do not care for light or water movement. If you have a lot of light in the tank, you need a lot of hides, so the axolotl can get away from the light, if the light is bothering him.

The many benefits of filtration can be found here.

If the filter has a strong flow rate (water movement is stressful to axolotls) you have a few options at your disposal. You can diffuse the flow by use of a spray bar, or place an obstruction (plant/rock/etc) in front of the flow to break the current, or if the filter has an adjustable outtake you can direct the stream to the tank wall.

The Axolotl Site has a wealth of information on the care requirements of axolotls. In my signature bar, there are many other useful links as well - all well worth a read through.

Welcome back to the hobby!
 

chinlato

New member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
17
Reaction score
0
Ok Thanks.

So I dont need a UV light or anything like that?

If I want to view them at night, am I able to have a light that they cant see? like an infrared light or is there something similar that doesn't produce heat?

I will put an internal filter in there and place it against the back wall of the tank, so it hits the front wall. Instead of it going from side to side.

I really want to keep a bare bottom tank, maybe river sand may do if they have trouble with traction.

I might keep it bare bottom and keep heaps of elodea in there.

Also, I'm thinking blackworms and bloodworms are the proper food, and sometimes feeder fish (without parasites)?

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

b00f

New member
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
269
Reaction score
14
Location
Australia
Try sourcing some LED lights.
I know that ebay is full of them at the moment
These lights have low power consumption and also low heat,

I would suggest the LED bars
Easy to setup, and safe around water (DC only)

Aaron
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Jacquie

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 31, 2008
Messages
1,849
Reaction score
48
Location
Melbourne, Australia
On the subject of lighting this thread may be of help to you: http://www.caudata.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55934

Use of the 'search' function (upper right) will yield further information.

Earthworm is the best staple for axolotls, as it contains all the nutrition an axolotl needs in one wriggling package. Salmon or trout pellets are also a complete staple if you are reluctant to feed live food to your axolotl. Blackworm and bloodworm are good nutritionally as well. Feeder fish are poor nutrition wise and must be quarantined 30 days before being fed to the axolotls.

These articles give a good run down on suitable food items for an axolotl:
http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/foods.shtml
http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/worms.shtml
 

Darkmaverick

Site Contributor
Joined
Mar 11, 2008
Messages
2,032
Reaction score
82
Location
Sydney
Hi Chinlato,

Fluorescent lights and normal aquarium lights will suffice. Lights are needed especially when you have live plants. You can automate the lighting for up to 6 hours duration per day. You are definitely on the right track to avoid lights that produce too much heat (such as anything incandescent) or with strong UV (reptile lights). Excess UV exposure is harmful to axies.

Hiding places are an absolute must. Hiding places should provide shade. Hence a transparent/translucent hamster dome does not fulfill the full function of a good hiding spot. Other than caves, logs, pots and pipes, strategic planting of aquatic plants can provide good shady hiding spots.

I have linked you another thread discussing the role of UV lights in axies.

http://www.caudata.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59626

Cheers
 
General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • Shane douglas:
    with axolotls would I basically have to keep buying and buying new axolotls to prevent inbred breeding which costs a lot of money??
    +1
    Unlike
  • Thorninmyside:
    Not necessarily but if you’re wanting to continue to grow your breeding capacity then yes. Breeding axolotls isn’t a cheap hobby nor is it a get rich quick scheme. It costs a lot of money and time and deditcation
    +1
    Unlike
  • stanleyc:
    @Thorninmyside, I Lauren chen
    +1
    Unlike
  • Clareclare:
    Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus Japanese . I'm raising them and have abandoned the terrarium at about 5 months old and switched to the aquatic setups you describe. I'm wondering if I could do this as soon as they morph?
    +1
    Unlike
    Clareclare: Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus... +1
    Top