Axie can't swallow worms!

Hi,

I'm hoping anyone can help me with this question.

Our axolotl, whom we have had for about 3 weeks, doesn't seem to be able to eat worms!! First I tried feeding him whole worms, which he accepted but wriggled out of his mouth. Then I tried chopping the worms into smaller pieces, which he also accepted, but as he gulps them down, he seems to push them out of his mouth, and continues gulping, but only eating water. Then I read that sometimes the smell of the chopped up worm puts the axie off, so I soaked the bits of worm in water first for a while, and the same thing happened. It is as if he just can't swallow them down. I have also tried bloodworms, but he didn't seem to even realize they were in his tank. He has managed to get the occasional piece of worm down, but I don't think he is really taking in enough to keep him well-fed and healthy.

Any suggestions would be very appreciated. Thanks

How big is he? It could just be a size problem. The worms could be just to thick for him to swallow. Keep trying the blood worms he should come around and start eating them.

Are the bloodworms live are frozen?

Thank you for your replies.

The blood worms are frozen, but I thawed them first. I know they won't wriggle, but they floated around for ages in front of his face, but he just looked.

He is about 10cm (4in) long. I cut the worms into pieces less than the width of his mouth as was suggested on another thread. They do fit into his mouth but he seems to push them out as he tries to swallow.

I'm worried because he hasn't really eaten much at all since we've had him and I think he's getting too skinny.

Try live bloodworms if you can, I know some pretty picky Axolotls are out there, and need the wiggle for the desire to eat. Try live bloodworms if you can.

Hi Hunnybee,

Axolotls can be somewhat finicky at the dinner table.

But so we can rule out anything of a more sinister nature which may be contributing to the inappetance - could you give us a rundown on your tank setup? There are many things that can stress an axolotl and while stressed; the axolotl won't likely feel inclined to eat.

Just some suggestions (with nosey questions ):

Water quality.

Has the tank been cycled? If the tank is still in the process of cycling the Ammonia levels may be building too high for the axolotl's comfort. Have you tested your water parameters for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate?

Ammonia is the most important reading - as ammonia is highly toxic. If the water quality is off, this will likely put the axolotl off eating.

What is the tank temperature?

Water Flow Issues

Is there any water current going on in the tank? Axolotls find water flow to be highly stressful. If the filter (usually the culprit) has a strong outflow which may be disturbing the axolotl: you can either

• place an obstruction in front of the flow to break the current,
• or turn the outflow nozzle to the tank wall,
• or afix a spray bar to disspate the flow.

Substrate

Is there any gravel in the tank?

Axolotls have huge cup-mouths and are capable of swallowing stones as large as their heads. When swallowed these rocks cause impaction (a blockage in the gut) which can be fatal. If you are using gravel and it is smaller than two centimeters in diameter - I would strongly recommend removing it.

Gravel (and larger rocks) also present the problem of water foulage - a lot of grot will accumulate underneath if not removed.

When feeding the bloodworm; are you removing the uneaten worms promptly? Bloodworms are a very messy food and if left to rot away in the tank, can cause water quality issues.

Sand or bare-bottom tanks are the safest substrates to use with axolotls and makes for easy spot clean and removal of grot.

Hides

Are there sufficient hides in the tank so the axolotl has somewhere to retreat to if needed? Hides are particuarly important if their tank is in a high traffic zone (they are flighty) or if the tank is in a well lit area (axolotls have no eyelids; so can't block the light out if it is bothering them).

Sorry for bombarding you with all these questions. But if there is a problem, better to sort it quickly than let it spread to many problems further down the track.

Hi Jacquie,

Thank you very much for your help.

I wanted to test the ammonia levels and asked at the pet shop but they said "not to worry, ammonia levels would be fine". So I guess I better go ahead and test that anyway.
The tank temp has been too high (you know what north QLD temps can be like), but I have managed to get it down to 22C-23C only in the last few days.

Filter is OK, not fast or strong.

I had gravel in there at first, but after all my research realized that was dangerous, so swapped it for large river stones. But like you say, stuff tends to accumulate under there, so I'm thinking of swapping that for sand.
But if you have sand, is it hard to siphon off the waste and debri? You say its easy to clean with sand, but I'm not sure how that works?

I try to remove uneaten worms straight away, but as you say, bloodworms are very messy, so I tend not to use them.

He is in my room which I have been leaving quite dim, air con on and he has a rock to hide behind, but he tends to sit right at the front of the tank anyway.

I read your other post too, and I'm ready to fridge him. When I put him in the fridge, do I use his tank water or do I use fresh water, and I've read that I have to change the water each day. Doesn't it stress them having new water every day?

Sorry for the questions, but I don't want to lose him, and trying to do my best.

Thanks

Do invest in a good kit to test for water chemistry. Get the solution based colourimetric type kit. It is important even in a cycled tank to at least test the water parameters once a week.

The axie's inappetance was most likely attributed to the elevated water temperatures, anything above 22 degrees for a prolonged period is certain to cause stress. You might like to consider a chiller for the long term, otherwise fridging over summer is the next best option.

You can always keep a bare bottomed tank. That would be the easiest to clean. If you are vigilant with water changes and siphoning off detritus, large river rocks are fine as well. You can still effectively remove debris from sand substrate. You would need to get a siphon vacuum to do this. Basically you 'shuffle' around the sand substate while simultaneously siphoning out particulate detritus. It takes a bit of practice and trial and error but you will find the angle in which you hold the siphon to avoid sucking up the sand yet still cleans effectively.

For the first fridging session, you can use tank water. Meanwhile prepare bottles of clean dechlorinated water in the fridge. During the daily water changes, you simply use the fridged bottles of pre made up water. Top up the bottles again and basically do a routine cycle this way. THe axie will not be stressed provided you use fridged dechlorinated water (constant temperature of water) to avoid thermal shock.
http://www.caudata.org/axolotl-sanctuary/Fridging.shtml

I've heard a lot of discussion regarding which substrate is best, so I would like to give my 2 cents. Since gravel is dangerous, river rocks are often difficult to clean, and sand can cause issues like gas bubbles, or messy conditions, I am a strong supporter of tile. I had 2 pieces of tile cut to fit the bottom of my tank. They look great, are a breeze to clean, and are just as easy as a bare bottom tank but with a nice look, and a good grip for the axies to move around on. Just another option in your quest to find the correct substrate for your tank.