Are My Water Test Results OK?

mkw

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Hello,

I've recently bought my first water testing kit and as my tank is cycling i want to know what results i'm aiming for?

Currently i have the following:

pH - 7.6
Ammonia - 0.25 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm

If anyone has a list of the required parameters and how to get them that would help.

Thanks in advance!
 
Yep... Kat is on the money for the final result that you are looking for. Basically you shall see your ammonia start to rise, then fall as the nitrIte rises. Then the nitrIte shall start to fall and you should get a positive nitrAte reading. Once you achieve Kat's results and see those zeros and the nitrAte beginning to rise, you have completed cycling. :happy:
 
Ph could be a little lower, but i wouldn't muck around with it right now until things settle and go for about 7.0 - 7.2

Your readings are spot on for where a tank starting to cycle should be.

If you have your axies in there alreafdy, just change out 20 % water (every day if need be) to keep that amm reading below 0.25

Next you will get a nitrite reading (could take weeks), and then the ammonina should drop , then finally a nitrates reading.

When you get the nitrates reading you should see the nitrites drop to zero too.

Have patience, it can take weeks, and if you have axies or fish in there take daily readings and change 10-20 % water every day

Bren
 
Thanks for the info, i currently don't have any animals in the tank. Is there anything that i can do to speed up the process? I have had it set up for nearly two weeks and have had food in there to help things along.
 
Hiya
Cycling is just a waiting game basically. Some cycle quickly some seem to take forever.

If you're providing a source of ammonia you are doing all you can, however, the ammonia reading is very low i would increase the amount of food your using, you want to see an ammonia spike followed by a nitrite spike then your almost there.


Mel
 
what food source do you use?

does fish flakes work?

I added some today to help cycling and they sunk on the sand... should I remove them at some point or leave them there to be consumed by bacteria?
 
The cycling process normally takes anywhere from 2-6 weeks. At temperatures below 70F, it takes even longer to cycle a tank. In comparison to other types of bacteria, nitrifying bacteria grow slowly. Under optimal conditions, it takes a full 15 hours for a colony to double in size!

Since the tank is empty you COULD add an aquarium heater and warm the tank to somewhere in the range of 25-28 degrees C it will speed it up a little but remember to take it out and allow the water to cool right down before you add any animals to it!

I am skeptical of this next option but it must be put in here

More recently, products containing colonies of nitrifying bacteria have become available at pet shops (e.g., ``Fritz'', ``Bio-zyme'', ``Cycle''). In theory, adding the bacteria jump-starts the colonization process as above. Net experience with such products has been mixed; some folks report success, while others report they don't work at all. In principle, such products should work well. However, nitrifying bacteria cannot live indefinitely without oxygen and food. Thus, the effectiveness of a product depends on its freshness and can be adversely effected by poor handling (e.g., overheating). Unfortunately, these products don't come with a freshness date, so there is no way to know how old they are.

Other ways to speed up cycling unfortunately require access to a trusted and well established tank.

The basic idea is to find an established tank, take some of the bacteria out of it and place them in the new tank.There are 2 ways to do it :happy:


1. Bring the Bacteria to you
Most filters have some sort of foam block or floss insert on which nitrifying bacteria attach. Borrowing all or part of such an insert and placing it in the new tank's filter gets things going more quickly.

If the established tank uses an undergravel filter, nitrifying bacteria will be attached to the gravel. Take some of the gravel (a cup or more) and hang it in a mesh bag in your filter (if you can), or hang/lay it in the new tank. An ornament or some plants would also work but would need to be placed in the aquarium not in the filter ;)

Some (not many) aquarium stores will provide aquarium buyers with a cup of gravel from an established tank. A word of caution is appropriate here. Due to the nature of the business, tanks in stores are very likely to contain unwanted pathogens (bacteria, parasites, etc.); you don't want to add them to your tank. If possible, seed a filter with bacteria from a non-store tank.



2. Take your filter to the bacteria
If you have a box, sponge or corner filter, simply connect it to an established aquarium and let it run for a week or so. Bacteria in the water will establish a bed in the new filter. After a week, move the now ``seasoned'' filter to the new tank.

Of course, there are many variations on the above that work. However, it is a bit difficult to give an exact recipe that is guaranteed to work. It is advisable to take a conservative approach and not add animal too quickly.
In addition, testing the water to be sure nitrates are being produced eliminates the guesswork of determining when your tank has cycled.
 
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