Cycling tank

Hi guys,

I understand that there are already MANY threads about cycling but I'm so confused and I couldn't find any posts that related to my problem. Tequila is my first axolotl and I got her just over a month ago as an unexpected birthday present so I had no choice but to do my research AFTERWARDS. (I've never had a pet without finding out as much as I can about them first). This obviously meant that I only recently discovered the cycling process and had no choice but to cycle the tank with her in it! When I first had her she was in a small tank however after 2 weeks I moved her into a 3ft tank (silly me rinsed all the fake plants and filter with tap water as I was unaware of the good bacteria). She has been in this new tank since the 7th of April so this is how long the tank has been cycling really.

I have the test strips for GH, KH, Ph, No2 and No3 and the Liquid test kit for Ammonia.
Basically I tested water straight from the tap and the results were:
KH = 0
GH = 0
No2 = 0
No3 = 0
Ph = 6.5

Since I moved her to the new tank the parameters every week haven't really changed at all.
Before putting her in the new tank on the 7th:
KH = 0
GH = 60
No2 = 0
No3 = 20
Ph = 6.0

The next test was two days later:
KH = 0 - 40
GH = 120-180
No2 = 0
No3 = 0 - 20
Ph = 6.0

These levels have remained the same with every test I've done to date however I began using the ammonia test on the 26th of April and the results were:
KH = 0
GH = 180
No2 = 0
No3 = 0
Ph = 6.0
Ammonia = 4.0

I'm basically confused with where my cycle is at, if it's even progressing at all. The ammonia has been 4 - 5 ever since I've been testing for it and I don't know what to do because I'm doing water changes and I feed her bloodworm cubes every 3 days so it's not a result of overfeeding her.

Just some info about the tank as well:
- 3ft Long x 14" Wide x 20" High and is approx 130L however I only have it half full
- Sand substrate that I move every few days and remove any waste that stirs
- Air stone
- Filter with spray bar that hit the glass (I don't know much about filter types but mine has carbon and a sponge)
- 2 fake plants from her old tank and 1 live hardy plant
- A reptile log for a hidey hole
- Her tank temp ranges from 16-18C

Sorry for the essay but I'm really confused so a push in the right direction would be greatly appreciated!

Jessica

4-5 ammonia, if that test is right - that's deadly. You need to do some huge water-changes ASAP.

I would fill your tank all the way ASAP as well. Half-full has no benefits apart from aesthetic and you are losing much valuable water to dilute the toxic chemicals produced in their waste. If you are worried about the axolotl jumping out, buy a cheap top (you don't have to buy a full hood, just a top).

You can always keep the axolotl in a small tub and do daily 100% water changes while the larger tank cycles.

What water changes, how often ? Do you have a turkey baster to remove the axolotl's waste ? Without removing it, it is highly toxic.

I know but I'm finding it weird that the No2 and No3 are where they're supposed to be so I'm wondering if my test is reading it but it's neutral. I've read that tests often do that so I don't know, I'm baffled.

I've been told you're only supposed to fill the water so that it's the length of the axy that's why it's only half full..

I change 25% of the water every 2 days and bought the live plant because apparently it's supposed to obviously help oxygenate the water but also absorbs excess ammonia. Probably been told wrong facts as usual. I'm guessing there isn't much that can be done besides more water changes?

Thanks

Hi, in the year an a half i've owned axolotls i have never cycled a tank, and never had a problem. I have also been raising hatchlings that are 5 month old now and have just changed the water daily without adding any chemicals, just water from the tap, keeping temperatures to 18 at the max and as low as it will go which sometimes drops to 10. Also have 2 week old hatchlings and have had no problems using same method. You never mentioned if your axolotl is suffering at all, or showing any signs of stress, also half filling the tank is what most sites say, as the axolotls are not great swimmers, although as chirple says, filling the tank full may be a good idea as the more water you have, this may help to calm your levels of amonia. The less water you have the more harder it is to keep the water conditions stable, more water is better for a more stable environment. A very good sign is that your axolotl is still feeding. Hope you resolve your issue soon,,,

It's okay to fill it all the way - the only time they need shallow water is if they're sick, and in that case it's *really* shallow in a separate container. They do go up for air sometimes, but if they're healthy it's not often at all and a bit of a swim isn't a problem, they are pretty good swimmers when they get going. More water = better, more water to dilute their waste, making it easier on you. My axolotl is in a 20 long and he enjoys walking around and hanging out at different tank levels - he'll sometimes sit in the plants or on top of his cave, and these objects also provide a "stepping stone" if he wants to reach the surface without exerting himself (... but he could probably use the exercise).

What you're doing is good, and sounds like the right thing to me - but while the ammonia will spike during cycling, you want to keep it to livable levels.

If you use the test kit on fresh tap water, what does it read ?

The liquid test should be pretty accurate, but you might want to invest in a full liquid set - the test strips are known for inaccuracy - it's possible they're just not sensitive enough or not reacting correctly et cetera.

jessicaanne said:

I know but I'm finding it weird that the No2 and No3 are where they're supposed to be so I'm wondering if my test is reading it but it's neutral. I've read that tests often do that so I don't know, I'm baffled.

I've been told you're only supposed to fill the water so that it's the length of the axy that's why it's only half full..

I change 25% of the water every 2 days and bought the live plant because apparently it's supposed to obviously help oxygenate the water but also absorbs excess ammonia. Probably been told wrong facts as usual. I'm guessing there isn't much that can be done besides more water changes?

Thanks

Click to expand...

No unfortunately there isn't much more you can do besides water changes but wait! It took 6 weeks for my last tank to cycle. The results youre getting - high ammonia and zero no2 and no3 will be normal early on in the cycle. When you see a rise in no2 (nitrite) your nearly there, This will drop again and no3 (nitrate)will be released, when this happens your tank will be cycled. Keep up with the water changes and be patient, you'll get there :happy:

P.s I also agree with Chirple - the more water the better!

Okay thanks for the input everyone :happy:

She seems happy, some days she's hyperactive and other days she barely moves but nothing out of the ordinary e.g. white spots, gills turned forward etc.

I did a 25% water change just before I posted this thread and tested the levels before and after but they were the same so tomorrow afternoon I'll change about half of the water and then fill it up closer to the top. When I tested the tap water it gave a reading of 0 - 0.25. Would it be a bad idea to give the sponge in the filter a clean using water taken from the tank? It gets a little bit dirty but I'm not sure if this will delay the cycle

This is a bit off the topic of cycling but how can you work out how old an axolotl is? Mine was bought at a pet shop and I'd like a rough idea of how old she is, I'm pretty sure she was sold as a juvenile.

Thanks!

Oh and I forgot to mention that the tank has been 'cycling' for just under 4 weeks so are my levels normal for this time or does it seem as though my cycle has stopped/slowed down?

I'm nearly done cycling, and its been since 3/11/12. First the ammonia will spike (do lots of water changes to keep it .25 or 0 (ammonia is the most toxic of all the processes). Then you will have a NitRITE (n02-) spike. Keep doing water changes (i'm finding I'm having to do HUGE water changes to keep my nitrite levels at .25 or 0). Then You will start reading NitRATE (N03-). You should be getting close at this stage. I'm personally still having a problem with my nitrites while my tank is also producing a lot of NitRATE so ??

However, when your readings say Ammonia = 0, Nitrite = 0, Nitrate = a positive reading, then you should be cycled.

If you want more detailed idea of whats happening in a cycle, I can shoot you a pm with my link to my axies Iherp account. It will probably help a bit.

I can't believe I didn't think of this sooner! What if I were to put her back in her old tank which is relatively smaller (with no substrate) and then get the levels in the bigger tank under control? I think that's my only option because I did a water change and then filled the tank up higher and still got a high ammonia reading.

Sigh, I wish I was prepared for the poor animal

Good news! I shook the fake plants upside down and so much gunk (soiled food, poo etc) fell out so I siphoned the sand, did a 50% water change and now my ammonia levels are at 2. Hopefully they're lower again in a few days time

It's amazing how much hidden "stuff" can get stuck in decorations! Makes me cringe sometimes!

I would prefer a bare tank but then it's no fun for the axolotls.

the axolotls actually could probably care less about the decorations so long as there is not a ton of light shining at them. If keeping them in a bare tank would be easier for you maintenance wise, I'd just make sure you have 1 good hide in there, and call it good.
I would just focus on ammonia/nitrite/nitrate. Putting GH, Kh, Ph into the equation just complicates cycling, and the only important things you really need to understand right now are the 3 toxins. Just keep doing daily waterchanges, and your axolotls will be fine. cycling does take awhile, but it'll happen eventually.