Actually - a bigger tank = less work for you. You will not have to change the water as often in a larger, cycled tank.
You will have to do basic, daily cleaning no matter what size.
If you don't have live plants, there's basically no extra cleaning other than daily and weekly water changes. You will want to clean your filter as instructed and necessary, but that's all. Before I had live plants, there was basically nothing in the way of debris that wasn't already removed with daily spot-cleaning. You will want to check for debris build-up weekly, but there will most likely not be much or any.
Live plants are great and help the bioload in the tank and look nice, but they are messy and will up your cleaning time.
I've always had sand in my tanks - and it wasn't any more work than bare-bottom to clean before I had live plants. Large river rocks look nice, but are more difficult to clean since debris will fall between the cracks.
Gravel is completely unsuitable for axolotls and is very often deadly. Like will be said in the next paragraph, they are not terribly smart creatures - and while eating will eat the gravel or any small rocks the size of their head or smaller. This can cause choking or impaction. Impaction may be "invisible" until it is too late. Sometimes it can't be resolved without surgery, and sometimes not at all.
A 40 breeder or a 55 is a good size. The problem with smaller tanks is that while they can live together, axolotls are not social animals, nor or they terribly smart. The problem is that in a smaller tank, they're more likely to bump into each other and mistake a limb or gill for food. They're not aggressive creatures that will just bite another's arm off, but they have very poor eyesight and tend to think anything moving is food and if they can fit it in their mouth, they'll try to eat it.
And remember that you should have at least two "hides" per axolotl.
It's good to remember that how your water *looks* is not indicative of water quality. You can have swampy water that is great for your aquatics, and clear water that's toxic to them. That's why it's important to test it every once in a while, even when cycled.
Sponge filters are great. For a larger tank, you might want to consider two - one in each back corner. They do actually help clear the water to an extent - when you rinse it off every 2 weeks or so, you'll see lots of accumulated "gunk". I've always run a sponge filter and never had water clarity or quality issues.
That is my axoltol tank with 1 golden albino male (if you get multiples, it might be best to get adults if possible - if you end up with boys *and* girls, you're going to eventually get eggs - and have to cull or raise them - and raising them is a lot of work and culling is uncomfortable for some).
The tank is a 20 long. The "long" size tanks and "breeders" are the best for axolotls since floor space is more important to them than vertical.
They do grow quite big !
Here's a picture from when I changed from a 10 gallon to a the 20 long :
You can see how much he's grown even just since then ! He's slowing down growing, though, and getting a little fat so he is no longer getting worms as often.
My very first tank. It looks big and spacious, but he is so big now that in that fake log, he cannot fit in it all at once, he is too long !
A problem with that first tank is that the sand was too deep. I had problems with it, and the amount in the bigger tank (the same sand) is perfect.
I would go light on the fake plants and go more for driftwood / rocks. Mine never liked the fake plants and would not go near them or touch them - whereas he will play in the live plants. For a tank with no live plants, I would just keep them to a minimum to maximise the space they can use.