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Olivia97

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I have an internal filter with the bead looking donut thingys. Do I have to clean the filter at all? All the articles I've read suggested replacement but I thought that would start my cycle all over again.
 
Got a link to it? It's important to see what they look like...My little guppy tank filter is supposed to be replaced every few weeks, but I don't as often, and I leave the old cartridges in the tank to reduce the cycling.
 
Uh it would be impossible to find it now :( I have one of those ordinary ones that go in the tank, nothing special.
 
Maybe when you do your next water change, bring it out and take a photo? Filters often have a variety of nuances that impact on the way they function (like my internal, which is SOOOO temperamental!!!)
 
Replacing your filter cartridges will crash your cycle. Filters actually last a very long time. Manufacturers tell you to replace them because they want your money. To "clean" your filter cartridges, just "swish" them in the tank water you're throwing away when you do your water changes. This gets rid of a lot of the gunk but leaves your bacteria colonies in place.

If you do have to replace a filter cartridge (maybe every few YEARS) then put a new filter in with the old one. A month later, cut and throw away half of the old filter, a month later toss the rest. Doing it that way allows the bacteria to colonize the new filter pad without removing all the bacteria from the old one all at once.
 
Yea that's what i thought, I don't know if there is a removable sponge pad thing in mine, is just beady things. I may be wrong though.
 
JessKB said:
Replacing your filter cartridges will crash your cycle. Filters actually last a very long time. Manufacturers tell you to replace them because they want your money. To "clean" your filter cartridges, just "swish" them in the tank water you're throwing away when you do your water changes. This gets rid of a lot of the gunk but leaves your bacteria colonies in place.

If you do have to replace a filter cartridge (maybe every few YEARS) then put a new filter in with the old one. A month later, cut and throw away half of the old filter, a month later toss the rest. Doing it that way allows the bacteria to colonize the new filter pad without removing all the bacteria from the old one all at once.
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Replacing the filter pads wont necessarily crash the cycle, the tank has its own bacterial colonies which will recolanise the new filter, I would not recommend changing the filter AND doing a heavy water change at the same time though , that could cause a crash. I dont actually use filters with my A.mexicanum but my A.andersoni and a tropical fish tank have them, the filter acts as an additional surface area for nitrifying bacteria and is useful for dealing with ammonia spikes, they are not essential but If you have a bare bottomed tank or a high stocking density, or new to tanks I would recommend them. Filters pads last ages, just wash the gunk off them with aquarium water (tap water will kill the useful bacteria), I replace mine one at a time when they start to fall apart, or if you just have the beads/bags of activated carbon do the same with them.
 
xxianxx said:
Replacing the filter pads wont necessarily crash the cycle, the tank has its own bacterial colonies which will recolanise the new filter, I would not recommend changing the filter AND doing a heavy water change at the same time though , that could cause a crash. I dont actually use filters with my A.mexicanum but my A.andersoni and a tropical fish tank have them, the filter acts as an additional surface area for nitrifying bacteria and is useful for dealing with ammonia spikes, they are not essential but If you have a bare bottomed tank or a high stocking density, or new to tanks I would recommend them. Filters pads last ages, just wash the gunk off them with aquarium water (tap water will kill the useful bacteria), I replace mine one at a time when they start to fall apart, or if you just have the beads/bags of activated carbon do the same with them.
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It might not crash the cycle, but there's a real good chance that it will. In the average aquarium, most beneficial bacteria will colonize the most porous area with the most available surface area. This is usually the filter. Removing something that has that much bacteria on it is never good. You would very likely have at least a mini-cycle. Of course there is bacteria all over the whole inside of the aquarium, but the majority lives primarily in the filter. Very little beneficial bacteria is in the water column.
 
JessKB said:
It might not crash the cycle, but there's a real good chance that it will. In the average aquarium, most beneficial bacteria will colonize the most porous area with the most available surface area. This is usually the filter. Removing something that has that much bacteria on it is never good. You would very likely have at least a mini-cycle. Of course there is bacteria all over the whole inside of the aquarium, but the majority lives primarily in the filter. Very little beneficial bacteria is in the water column.
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When doing a heavy water change without a filter you can crash a cycle, by changing filter medium and doing a heavy water change you can get the same effect. I dont understand the science, for as you correctly said most of the bacteria are not in the water column but a 75%+ change in tank water can cause cycling problems, it may be down to disturbing the substrate but I honestly dont know, it is just an occurance I have observed in my own axolotl tanks. If you are using a substrate such as sand a filter is not essential (I have no experience of cycling bare bottomed tanks and possibly the lower surface area may have an effect, I cant comment in this situation), it is an optional extra which provides additional defense against ammonia spikes by allowing a larger surface for bacterial colonies to exist in the tank. You can safely change filter material in a fully cycled tank but care must be taken to monitor the water quality as a cycle crash is possible but not "a real good chance". If this was a likely occurrence how do you think filterless tanks can remain cycled ?
 
xxianxx said:
You can safely change filter material in a fully cycled tank but care must be taken to monitor the water quality as a cycle crash is possible but not "a real good chance". If this was a likely occurrence how do you think filterless tanks can remain cycled ?
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Because a filterless tank doesn't have a filter pad to colonize. The filter doesn't do anything biologically other than provide a good place for bacteria to colonize ( porous, lage surface area, good aeration, and all the water is constantly flowing through it bringing the nutrients to the bacteria) in a tank with a filter, the vast majority of bacteria colonies will be in the filter, and to a lesser degree all the other surfaces in a tank. A filterless aquarium will have more bacteria on inside surfaces instead. Taking out a filter pad in a filtered tank all at once is basically throwing out most of your bacteria. Taking all the decorations and substrate from an unfiltered tank will do the same thing. A mini-cycle is very likely in either case.

As far as large water changes go, there seems to be a large dissagreement between a lot of experienced aquarists. I've heard reliable opinions on both sides. Personally I have been forced to do 100% water changes before ( like moving) and have never experienced a blip in water quality as long as substrate, tank contents, and filter media stay damp. Two months ago I moved all my tanks an hour away and to a different water source with no negative side effects.
 
JessKB said:
Because a filterless tank doesn't have a filter pad to colonize. The filter doesn't do anything biologically other than provide a good place for bacteria to colonize ( porous, lage surface area, good aeration, and all the water is constantly flowing through it bringing the nutrients to the bacteria) in a tank with a filter, the vast majority of bacteria colonies will be in the filter, and to a lesser degree all the other surfaces in a tank. A filterless aquarium will have more bacteria on inside surfaces instead. Taking out a filter pad in a filtered tank all at once is basically throwing out most of your bacteria. Taking all the decorations and substrate from an unfiltered tank will do the same thing. A mini-cycle is very likely in either case.
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Good response and a convincing argument though I still would disagree with the statement that removing a filter pad from a cycled tank would automatically cause a crash, yes there is the potential for it happening but it is not a certainty. It is the reason I tend to remove one filter pad at a time. Lots of conflicting arguments online but a pleasant change to have a civilized discussion. Also as a side note I crashed a tank a couple of weeks ago with a 75% water change, I was moving some axolotls to a shed tank which had contained fire belly newts, I wanted to ensure that any toxins from the newts were at low levels, normally this percentage wouldnt have crashed the cycle, it is what I consider to be a safe (but the highest level) percentage but the tank was at 10c , which could easily lead to a discussion about the effects on low temps for cycling tanks..... please dont lol
 
xxianxx said:
Good response and a convincing argument though I still would disagree with the statement that removing a filter pad from a cycled tank would automatically cause a crash, yes there is the potential for it happening but it is not a certainty. It is the reason I tend to remove one filter pad at a time.
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Houston I think we have a misunderstanding. I was talking about a filter with a single filter pad, not one with two or more( the OP was talking about an internal filter which IME usually only have a single filter pad) . If there are multiple filter pads then removing one would not likely cause a mini-cycle. I would be far more leery of doing it with a filter that only has a single pad.

I don't think that the bacteria in aquariums is all that well researched, which would explain the conflicting experiences of aquarists. It would be a very interesting subject for someone to use as a college thesis. I wonder how many different types of bacteria are present and if they are the same in different places/regions.

Good discussion ;)
 
Oh good god, yes I have a 3ft tank with heaps of ornaments and plants and sand as a substrate so there really is heaps of area for bacteria. I don't really want to pull apart my filter incase I brake it like I did with my last one so should I just swish it around in some tank water?
 
Olivia97 said:
Oh good god, yes I have a 3ft tank with heaps of ornaments and plants and sand as a substrate so there really is heaps of area for bacteria. I don't really want to pull apart my filter incase I brake it like I did with my last one so should I just swish it around in some tank water?
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You need to access the filter medium to clear the gunk out, I am not familiar with your filter type, do you have a link for it?
 
Olivia97 said:
I finally found a link, its the first one Aquatrade - Filtration
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The advert says that it comes with "sponge and biological noodles", both will contain bacterial colonies, just clean one in aquarium water and clean the other at a latter date. These filters are designed to be taken apart for maintenance so dont be worried that it wouldnt go back together or that you will break it , just read the instruction manual and take note of how it comes apart, they are generally designed to only go back together one way or have reversible bits. Also remember some parts , such as a powerhead, are maintenance free, they are sealed, dont try to pry anything apart which is sealed by the manufacturer, those bits just get an external wipe down.
 
xxianxx said:
The advert says that it comes with "sponge and biological noodles", both will contain bacterial colonies, just clean one in aquarium water and clean the other at a latter date. These filters are designed to be taken apart for maintenance so dont be worried that it wouldnt go back together or that you will break it , just read the instruction manual and take note of how it comes apart, they are generally designed to only go back together one way or have reversible bits. Also remember some parts , such as a powerhead, are maintenance free, they are sealed, dont try to pry anything apart which is sealed by the manufacturer, those bits just get an external wipe down.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately there were no instruction manuals with it. I shall give it a go tomorrow. Thanks for your help Ian.:bowl:
 
Looks very similar to my AquaOne- Old war horse who can be a teeny bit narky at times- Nai has it- one compartment at a time, so they get a clear out once every month or two (depending on how much gunk is in your tank :p ) One piece of advice I will pass on is to avoid it sucking bubbles into the motor at all costs- that's where I've run into difficulties.
 
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