Set up for Fire-Bellied Newt

Ku Ku

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So my family have kept fishes for many years and regular trips to the garden centre have always been a great excuse for tea and cake....

...However on my last outing I discovered a little something in the reptile section that was (for me) a tad more interesting than fishes (the ole folks are the ones with the fishes) - Fire-bellied Newts!

After the appropriate amount of time was spent cooing over their tanks and their adorable newty faces I went away and did a little research (because i'd never trust someone trying to sell me something to give me all the facts) which lead me many places, including here.

Before I decide to bring the little fellas home I have a few questions regarding set up that i'd like to ask of you newty wise men and women:

1, I've read that bio-orbs are not suitable for Axolotls due to their preference for laying on the bottom, is this the same for fire bellies?

2. Acrylic tanks (with a good lid) vrs glass tanks, what are the differences / benefits?

3. Would a 19L tank be enough for two newts?

4. I am currently away from home recovering from an illness, therefore, the newts would need to travel for an hour after being established in their new tank for 2 weeks or so. How can I minimise the stress on the newts? Is this something they can handle or is it too upsetting? (I have never seen newts for sale in my area of the country and dislike the thought of them being sent through the post, plus I have tank experts here to help me set up a viable tank to take home...)

5. I've heard that FBNs really like their weed. Does it need to be live or is a large amount of decorative weed acceptable?

6. I've also read that FBNs mostly dislike filters due to the currents they produce. I was thinking to buy a gentle filter i.e. one suitable for baby fish but would I be better off with just an air stone? How will this affect cleaning / water quality / bacteria build up etc?

7. What food source would be best for them at the beginning? Bloodworms (since i'm imagining thats what they are used to) or something else? Should I invest in vitamin dusting powder stuff? (If so what kind would you recommend?)

I think thats all I can think of to ask for now! Thanks in advance for your help!
 
The Caudata Culture article on these newts is very informative if you haven't yet read it: Caudata Culture Species Entry - Cynops orientalis - Chinese firebelly

1. I am not sure what you mean by bio-orbs, are these LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) pellets?

2. I like glass better than acrylic because I find that the temperature stays lower in glass. Not sure if anyone else here has noticed this, or if maybe I'm imagining things.

3. Personally I find that a minimum of double that size, 38 L or 10 gallons is fine for two newts.

4. Travel is inherently stressful but sometimes necessary. When transporting the tank, empty it but reserve some of the water in a jug to avoid "shocking" the newts with different water conditions after the move. I find that transporting small newts in deli cups or another watertight container with some cage plants or dampened paper towels works well. Use aquarium water to keep them damp, and make sure that temperatures do not fluctuate too much during the move. Placing the watertight container into a cooler or other Styrofoam container can help avoid temperature fluctuations. I've transported newts this way both for moving and for teaching wet labs. If the animals are healthy, they can generally tolerate the temporary stress.

5. I've found that they do like plants in their aquariums, which not only add to the visual interest of the enclosure, but help promote a healthy aquatic mini-ecosystem. Egeria/"elodea," java moss draped on wood pieces, and java fern are all plants I've used with success. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) can be used as a partially aquatic plant, if enough of it is draped on wood above water then it will grow semi-aquatically and looks really nice! I often found my newts resting on the leaves both underwater and above water.

6. A gentle filter can help keep the water quality good without disturbing them too much. Canister filters with a rock or branch to "brace" the current work well. I've also maintained these guys in filterless aquaria, but with weekly partial water changes.

7. I don't like to rely on a single food source for any animal, since chronic nutritional deficiencies can be tough to diagnose. This is especially true with aquatic caudates and anurans since multivitamin and mineral powders don't really stick to their food once it's underwater. Check out the Caudata Culture article for examples of different foods: Caudata Culture Articles - Food Items for Captive Caudates I've offered bloodworms, whiteworms/mosquito larvae, blackworms and chopped nightcrawlers to my newts in the past with success. My newts never seemed to enjoy Tubifex worms.
 
To Christina: Bio-orbs are a brand of fish tank, the tanks tend to be spherical in shape.

To Ku Ku: Bio-orbs are not suitable for newts
 
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  • Shane douglas:
    with axolotls would I basically have to keep buying and buying new axolotls to prevent inbred breeding which costs a lot of money??
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  • Thorninmyside:
    Not necessarily but if you’re wanting to continue to grow your breeding capacity then yes. Breeding axolotls isn’t a cheap hobby nor is it a get rich quick scheme. It costs a lot of money and time and deditcation
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  • stanleyc:
    @Thorninmyside, I Lauren chen
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  • Clareclare:
    Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus Japanese . I'm raising them and have abandoned the terrarium at about 5 months old and switched to the aquatic setups you describe. I'm wondering if I could do this as soon as they morph?
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    Clareclare: Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus... +1
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