Are these Decapsulated BBS? Also Salt Question

usafaux2004

usafaux2004

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I received the baggies with the hatchery set, and bought the vial when I went to the LFS for the pump. I don't think these are de-capsulated (have those on the way!), but knowing for sure is great. Also, any issue with using these for the Axie babies?


Another thing, is the API Aquarium Salt ok for the BBS? Have a lot left from when my fish tank had Ich:

aquarium_salt.jpg


Also,

How much BBS will I need for 20-40 Axies?

I have 2 8oz cans coming my way of the De-capped BBS, but how long will that last me?
 
Another question...my wife is paranoid about leaving appliances on...so she won't let me keep a lamp on. Any other ideas? I can probably get it up to middle 70s, but that's it.
 
I can answer your first two questions because I've recently had the same ones myself. 1.No, those aren't decapsulated (and they are a huge pain...they're what I'm using at the moment). 2. Yes, that salt is fine (it's what I'm using as well). Just make sure you don't add more salt to the packets, which already include salt.
 
Also, mine are 12 days old and already switching to chopped up blackworms. All bit 2--that aren't growing for some reason, have been eating them this evening. They acted terrified of the worms at first....haha.

This is my attempt of answering your third question. I have 25 larvae (3 died) and have gone through one vial of bbs you mentioned above and about 6-7 of the packets. Hope that helps some.
 
Thanks! That helps a lot actually with the numbers. On the subject of heating it...are you using the lamp? How are you checking the temperature? How are the axies taking to the non-decapped shrimp? Does anyone know why the decapped is more preferred? I read that they are more nutritious or some such?
 
usafaux2004 said:
Thanks! That helps a lot actually with the numbers. On the subject of heating it...are you using the lamp? How are you checking the temperature? How are the axies taking to the non-decapped shrimp? Does anyone know why the decapped is more preferred? I read that they are more nutritious or some such?
Click to expand...

You're welcome. :)

I'm keeping a tiny room heater near the 2L bottles of bbs. I have it on the lowest setting, and it keeps the temp of the water at 80-82. (I bought it at Walmart for $15.). I keep an electronic thermometer in each bottle so I can make sure that they're staying at the right temp. I also have an air bubbler in each bottle--they are set in full blast.

I initially found it very difficult to get all of the bbs shells (?) separated from the bbs. I had one casualty that I'm pretty sure was due to an impaction related to this. It was very gruesome to say the least, and I feel pretty horrible about it.

I've come up with a strategy to separate the bbs and shells that's working very well. It will take a little while for me to post (and I'm half asleep), but I'm happy to post it tomorrow. How many days old are the eggs right now? (Also...the process is pretty time consuming, so if you can get the decapsulated bbs prior to your eggs hatching, I'd go that route instead.)
 
I prefer decapsulated eggs because I don't have to worry about eggshells (which can kill babies by impaction). The resulting BBS are exactly the same in terms of nutrition.

I had 40 babies, and a 2oz bottle lasted a week. I switched over to daphnia and bloodowrms at 2-3 weeks.

Aquarium salt is fine, just make sure you have the correct concentration.
 
My de-capped eggs shipped/are about to ship so I'm all set!

Question on bottles...I got 2 (thinking of running a dual set up hatchery), 1.5L water bottles...I know the general consensus is 2L bottles, but should I just proportion everything to 75% in that case?
 
1.5L bottles are fine, you can hatch just as many BBS in 1.5 L as 2L. The only reason 2L bottles are recommended is that they are genrally easy to come by.
 
I'll post pics of my setup in a bit, but a quick question on the temps...

The tutorial here on the forum said 25C, which is ~78F. I can manage that, but as with the axie eggs, does that mean it will take longer to hatch? What's the absolute low they can get to? with two running, i can start it up and altarnate quite nicely...

Edit: Got two hatcheries running on a Marina 50 air pump...how much bubbles is enough? I don't know if this small pump cuts it for two!

http://www.amazon.com/Marina-11110-...&qid=1386214046&sr=8-2&keywords=marine+50+air
 
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All you need to do with bubbles is keep the water moving - a steady stream is fine, and I used a single small pump for 2 hatcheries . Your set up looks good :)
 
I have a question related to this subject (seems better to add on here rather than start a new thread):

My BBS are in a setup like the one in the tutorial, but I've noticed that they live for several days this way, and I don't have enough baby axolotls to eat all that hatch. My BBS are not heated at all, but they are near the vent from the heater yet it still takes about 36 hours for them to hatch. Is this normal?

Also, once they do hatch there is a debris that floats to the top of the water when I let the BBS settle so I can harvest them and feed to the babies. Does this mean they are not decapsulated?

Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!
 
Decapsulated eggs are quite clearly marked, an come in bottles of liquid. Ordinary eggs are dry grit. Which do you have? (I'm guessing dry)
Ordinary eggs can take up to 48 hours to hatch, decapsulated are usually quicker at 12-36 hours, but it's all temperature dependant.
If you have floating debris it's probably the egg shells and you really need to make sure you're not getting any of those in with your babies - they can cause impaction in little larvae and kill them.

BBS will live for a while feeding on their yolks, but you want to feed them to your axies before they use all the yolk up - thats when they are most nutritious. If you hatch fewer eggs you'll be feeding BBS when they are fresher and better quality.
 
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