Caudata.org: Newts and Salamanders Portal

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Did you know that registered users see fewer ads? Register today!

The obligatory cycling question.

tortugaviejo

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
I plan on getting an axolotl soon, but I'm hearing many, many different things from people regarding cycling and how soon I can put the axo in the tank. I've read up on this site and axolotl.org, and read through some posts on here, but when it comes down to it, I'm more terrified of getting an axolotl now because every story's different and I expect the little guy to die within days.

I just bought a 10 gallon tank, air pump (with air stone), filter, black sand and the chemical that de-chlorines the water. I also bought a Cycle chemical that's supposed to speed up the cycling process. I got 3 fish to put in the tank to get everything going as well so they can produce ammonia and everything goes from there. My axo is expected to be here in 3 weeks or so, but here's where I'm lost:

-A co-worker who had axolotl for a few years said that since I'm just getting one, the tank should be ready after a week or two. She's worked for PetCo for over 15 years in the aquatics department.

-Various forums have mentioned that the water in the tank needs to be changed every other day, every 4-5 days, or once a week. They also say to change either 1/3 of the water or all of it. I don't quite get this part because if I'm changing all of it, doesn't that essentially get rid of all the necessary chemicals/bacteria?

-A guy who was selling an axo on eBay a few months ago sent me the following info when I was about to get one but had to hold off on getting the tank due to bills:

"get a 10-gallon tank at Petco, and then fill it with water that's been treated with Aquasafe. You'll want to put sand at the bottom (NOT gravel, because gravel will kill your axie), and then you'll need a sponge filter and an air pump. You will also need to get some feeder fish to put in the tank so that they'll produce ammonia to begin the cycle of beneficial bacteria. The fish produce ammonia, which changes into nitrate, which then changes into nitrite, and then the cycle begins. Once the tank has the correct amounts of these chemicals, it will be ready for your axie to live in it, and the benefit of having a cycled tank is that you don't have to do 100% water changes. You just change out 1/3 of the water once a week."

So which is it? I feel like an idiot for saying this, but the summaries of how to cycle a tank either seem like they're missing something, or add in a lot of optional information that throws me off.

Any help is appreciated. I've been wanting an axolotl for years and will commit to making sure it lives a good, long life. Also, is the air pump really necessary since the filter's there?
 

ted22

New member
Joined
May 30, 2010
Messages
393
Reaction score
11
Location
West Sussex, England
Hello im new on here but have had great sucess with my axie, set up ur tank with sand sand cave plants filter n whatever, fill it with dechlorinated water and turn everything on. chuck a couple of guppys or a frozen prawn (the decomp will produce the ammonia) (i used a bacterial suplement on first fill) and do 20-30% water change (n replace prawn if using one) every day or 2 for the first 2 weeks, put abit of aquarium water in a bottle n take it to ur nearest pet shop they will test it for you and should tell you if anythings unusual (grab a test kit while ur at it so you can monitor the cycle)! put ur axie in the tank and do a 20-30% waterchange every 2-3 days for the first week or 2 the axie is in the tank and then you should be fine with 20-30%changes once a week from there! if anything bad comes up on the test do more frequent water changes! dont worry bout having the axie in the tank when siphoning water if he doesnt like it he'll hide but ususally he'll use it as an opportunity to say hi! Have fun!

peace

>ed<

Oooh never change more than 50% water it can upset the balance of things! remove all the water and ul have to start the process again!!

p.s and air stone = good can increase evaporation to keep ur tank cool oxygenates the water and my axie loves playin in the bubbles!
 
Last edited:

tortugaviejo

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Thanks. Something I forgot to add was that another post said that I could put the axo in -while- starting the cycle and without doing the de-chlorine thing because of their gills being able to handle it, and because the chlorine would kill any harmful bacteria. That sounded a bit too out there.
 

dragonlady

New member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,324
Reaction score
24
Location
Fremont, NC
Hi,

Basically, what Ted told you is correct, including a vital part - pick up test kits for pH, nitrite/nitrate, ammonia. Also, please monitor the temp. You should also know that a 10 gallon really is too small for an adult axolotl. It can be used as a temporary home for a juvie. A 15-20 gallon long would be more suitable for an adult axolotl.

The only way you can have an axie in the tank while cycling is to have the test kits and thermometer. You must be able to monitor the changes going on during cycling. During your cycle, you should get at least one ammonia spike - that is, the ammonia is going to jump to a high, possibly toxic level. This is what can kill your axolotl.You will need to monitor your water daily with an axie in the tank. As soon as this spike is seen, you will need to do daily water changes (20%) until it drops. As it is dropping, you should be registering nitrites (bad bacteria) - these need to be kept in check as well with water changes. The water you add will need to be pre-treated before adding it. Then you should see nitrates register, this will indicate your cycle is complete.

Your exerpt from the eBay guy states nitrates become nitrites - this is backwards. Changing 1/3 of the water is extreme, especially in a ten gallon tank. If your ammonia spike is extremely bad, 2.0 or above, then yes, a bigger water change will be necessary for the safety of your axie.

Once your tank is cycled, about 20% water changes weekly should be fine. You will need to plan on cleaning daily though with a siphon and/or turkey baster.

As for "Cycle", the benefits of using a product like this are short-term at best and can cause a system to crash later as it is in essence, a false start. You are basically adding anaerobic bacteria - bad bacteria - to your tank, a second ammonia source; not needed and undesired. The good (aerobic) bacteria that this product claims to provide needs 2 things in order to survive - air and food. In a sealed bottle, sitting on a shelf, for an undetermined amount of time, this good bacteria is going to run out of air and/or food quickly - the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish with cycling your tank.

What kind of filter do you have? Internal types tend to create heat and waterfall types cause too much water flow for axolotls - they need slow moving water. The waterfall can be diverted to slow the flow if needed. You will not need the air pump either - assuming you have bought it for use with an air stone. Some axies don't mind air stones, others are stressed. They don't need that much aeration.

About not dechlorinating (your last post), your axie cannot handle chlorine. If you know your town uses chlorine, chlorine will evaporate naturally from standing water within hours. However, if your town uses chloramines, these do not evaporate and will need to be removed using "Aquasafe" or something similar. Also, other nasties can be in your water such as metals that also need to be removed. A water report should be available online, at your local library, or from your town's public works dept.

Hope this helps, if something is not clear, or if you have other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
 

tortugaviejo

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
I got a 10 gallon because that seemed to be the most common choice for people with just one axolotl on a few forums I checked, and also in a lot of YouTube videos I've seen. I'll probably get a bigger tank within the year.

"As soon as this spike is seen, you will need to do daily water changes (20%) until it drops. As it is dropping, you should be registering nitrites (bad bacteria) - these need to be kept in check as well with water changes. The water you add will need to be pre-treated before adding it. Then you should see nitrates register, this will indicate your cycle is complete."

So you mean to add the bad bacteria as I'm changing, but how? By leaving the fish in there to produce the bacteria, or is there a method that I'm just not aware of?
 

ted22

New member
Joined
May 30, 2010
Messages
393
Reaction score
11
Location
West Sussex, England
Yes thats everything you need to know bang on! I have also seen this (no need to dechlorinate) on one website so i would not call it reliable. Chlorine = bad no matter what creature you are plus a water conditioner also removes any dissolved metals and other nastys so theres that benifit too! I wouldnt put your axie in to start the cycle as the water parameters could be fluctuating dramatically and piss off the little bugger!

Tiis good your doing your research I must have read every single post on every forum imaginable before i got my axie, glad i did tho no one wants an unhappy axolotl!

I only used the cycle solutionto get the cycle kick started so should only need to add right when first fillin up from then havin abit of food or fish in the tank will do the same thing n provide the ammonia for the bacteria. The bateria grows in the filter media, substrate, glass and other surfacess so you wont be removing it all when changing water so no need to add more cycle solution just a source of ammonia (guppys,food) for the bacteria to feed on untill you axie moves in!
 
Last edited:

dragonlady

New member
Joined
Mar 5, 2010
Messages
1,324
Reaction score
24
Location
Fremont, NC
So you mean to add the bad bacteria as I'm changing, but how? By leaving the fish in there to produce the bacteria, or is there a method that I'm just not aware of?

Please don't use YouTube as an information source, I have been so infuriated by some of the axolotl videos out there, it's not even funny!! :angry:

If you are doing a "fish cycle," there's no need to add extra bad bacteria. The water changes are done with fresh, clean, dechlorinated water. You remove 20% of your tank water and replace it with "new" water - water from your tap that has been treated.

You would only need to add more ammonia if you did not have fish or an axolotl already in the tank.
 

tortugaviejo

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Alright, thanks for clearing that up. I'll be doing that.

Since I'm new to axolotl care, I don't know all the super bad "don'ts", but I've seen a video or two that I knew shouldn't be there. Like this one of an axo eating gravel. Look dude, I can see you think that's funny, and to a tiny extent, it IS one of those "aww wookit he ate a wock!" kinda things, but...it could die, so realize that and do something about it.
 

ted22

New member
Joined
May 30, 2010
Messages
393
Reaction score
11
Location
West Sussex, England
Ah Shannon mentioned somthing in a previous post i just thought id highlight, A TURKEY BASTER! It is the most lethal weapon in the war against axolotl poo god know how people do it with a net!
 

ted22

New member
Joined
May 30, 2010
Messages
393
Reaction score
11
Location
West Sussex, England
You probably know the big donts gravel, tankmates and high currents being the main ones over eating can be a prob but when young it seems the more they eat the more they grow but once theyre grown n still eat alot they get fat bloated n develop all kinds of problems, a few tips tho feed at night clean up leftovers in the morning, a few plants to climb but floor space important (floating plants=good provides shade) a cave or tunnel big enough to fit its whole body, low wattage tube i use moonlight tube doesnt affect him at all so i get to see him alot more than i used to! Things to climb and sit on! ooh when feeding frozen blood worms place them in a jar or shot glass in the tank to contain the feeding frenzy as best as you can!
 
General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
    There are no messages in the chat. Be the first one to say Hi!
    Top