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Axolotl tank set-ups, filters, substrate>Setting Up Axolotl Tank
chinlato 22:54 27th April 2009
Hi all, I used to keep axolotls in the past, although I've forgotten a couple things.

I have a Standard 3ft tank and a Standard 4ft tank.

I'm wanting to keep a couple axolotl in either tank, whichever is better.

I need to be reminded of the following info if possible.

*Water temperature

*Substrate ( is bare bottom stressfull for them?)

*Filter?

*Lighting?

Thanks in advance.

 
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Jacquie 00:24 28th April 2009
The optimum temperature range for axolotls is 14-18 degrees celcius. Axolotls will 'tolerate' temperatures up to 22C as long as the water quality is excellent (warmer water increases the toxidity of Ammonia). If the temperature hits 23C, it's time to start putting tank cooling tactics into effect. Temperatures 24C and above will cause stress to the axolotls, leading quickly to illness, and likely death.

Bare bottom tanks are by far the easiest to keep clean. Quite a few members of this site use bare bottom tanks and have no problems. Some axolotls may experience difficulties with traction on the slippery base of a bare bottom tank, and they can find this stressful. If this is the case (or you prefer the natural look) however, sand is also an excellent substrate, and makes for easy spot and removal of grot.

Axolotls do not care for light or water movement. If you have a lot of light in the tank, you need a lot of hides, so the axolotl can get away from the light, if the light is bothering him.

The many benefits of filtration can be found here.

If the filter has a strong flow rate (water movement is stressful to axolotls) you have a few options at your disposal. You can diffuse the flow by use of a spray bar, or place an obstruction (plant/rock/etc) in front of the flow to break the current, or if the filter has an adjustable outtake you can direct the stream to the tank wall.

The Axolotl Site has a wealth of information on the care requirements of axolotls. In my signature bar, there are many other useful links as well - all well worth a read through.

Welcome back to the hobby!

 
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chinlato 00:31 28th April 2009
Ok Thanks.

So I dont need a UV light or anything like that?

If I want to view them at night, am I able to have a light that they cant see? like an infrared light or is there something similar that doesn't produce heat?

I will put an internal filter in there and place it against the back wall of the tank, so it hits the front wall. Instead of it going from side to side.

I really want to keep a bare bottom tank, maybe river sand may do if they have trouble with traction.

I might keep it bare bottom and keep heaps of elodea in there.

Also, I'm thinking blackworms and bloodworms are the proper food, and sometimes feeder fish (without parasites)?

Thanks.

 
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b00f 00:39 29th April 2009
Try sourcing some LED lights.
I know that ebay is full of them at the moment
These lights have low power consumption and also low heat,

I would suggest the LED bars
Easy to setup, and safe around water (DC only)

Aaron

 
Reply
Jacquie 00:58 29th April 2009
On the subject of lighting this thread may be of help to you: http://www.caudata.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55934

Use of the 'search' function (upper right) will yield further information.

Earthworm is the best staple for axolotls, as it contains all the nutrition an axolotl needs in one wriggling package. Salmon or trout pellets are also a complete staple if you are reluctant to feed live food to your axolotl. Blackworm and bloodworm are good nutritionally as well. Feeder fish are poor nutrition wise and must be quarantined 30 days before being fed to the axolotls.

These articles give a good run down on suitable food items for an axolotl:
http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/foods.shtml
http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/worms.shtml

 
Reply
Darkmaverick 04:42 29th April 2009
Hi Chinlato,

Fluorescent lights and normal aquarium lights will suffice. Lights are needed especially when you have live plants. You can automate the lighting for up to 6 hours duration per day. You are definitely on the right track to avoid lights that produce too much heat (such as anything incandescent) or with strong UV (reptile lights). Excess UV exposure is harmful to axies.

Hiding places are an absolute must. Hiding places should provide shade. Hence a transparent/translucent hamster dome does not fulfill the full function of a good hiding spot. Other than caves, logs, pots and pipes, strategic planting of aquatic plants can provide good shady hiding spots.

I have linked you another thread discussing the role of UV lights in axies.

http://www.caudata.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59626

Cheers

 
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