SludgeMunkey
New member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2008
- Messages
- 2,299
- Reaction score
- 79
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- Location
- Bellevue, Nebraska
- Country
- United States
- Display Name
- Johnny O. Farnen
Well folks it has been a long while, but here are some updates on my kaiseri breeding program.
1. No I am not currently selling or planning to sell adults, juvies, eggs or anything else for the time being.
2. After very nearly losing the colony to low male numbers and a few male deaths I have completely recovered thanks to some juveniles from the original batches reaching sexual maturity and an emergency breeder trade.
3. Currently I have over 450 individuals at various ages all being raised up with the intent of establishing a very stable production colony.
4. I have perfected my husbandry techniques to the point I am no longer dependent on local seasonal weather. This has been one of my ultimate goals since the beginning. In fact I have better luck breeding kaiseri than I do axolotls or European newts.
5. I am not currently able to share my complete techniques and findings just yet as this encompasses a large portion of my thesis, which I am entering the closing stages of this semester.I am utterly exhausted with research and compiling data. Somehow I have to take a few years worth of daily data and digest it down to a useable format...and then write the paper without it remaining in the very scary looking near book format it is in right now.
The main point for this post however concerns temperatures. I have been able to replicate a compressed temperature cycling program based on temperature and water levels. By following this one can successfully get viable eggs envy 90 days.Yuo end up with an average clutch size of 58 eggs per laying by this method.
All of my ten gallon breeding tanks are in a six inch deep custom built trough that utilizes a modified computer CPU water cooler to circulate chilled water to maintain cold water temps without dropping air temps to significantly.
For the basic run down is this:
Month one: Terrestrial adults (males kept separately and individually)
Add water to the set-ups previously described in my previous reports at the rate of one inch per week. Air temps 72-78F. Water temps 68-70F. As water level goes up, temperature is dropped 3 degrees within 48 hours. Feed every other day as normal gradually increasing to daily the final week.12/12 lighting cycle slowly shifted to 8/16 cycle.
Month Two: Breeding and eggs
By this time the tanks are 50% full of water @ 55-60F. Females are all showing extended cloaca. Males are introduced. Feeding is kept daily, just before the lights go out. Eggs usually show up by day 21. Adults are removed and kept terrestrially back on 12/12 lighting. Adult temps brought back up to previous ranges. Daphnia, rotifers, moina, and macroinfusoria introduced to tank. Hatch and rear eggs as normal, maximum temp 70F until adult coloration forms, then slowly drop water depth to one inch. Then allow water to maintain ambient temperature and evaporate as juveniles enter terrestrial stage. rear terrestrial as one would any other small newt. (I have reared some aquatically, but I have replicated data that links lower mortality in terrestrial juveniles)
Month three: Prepping adults for next breeding cycle
Feed heavily daily with terrestrial isopods, crickets and similar small LIVE insects. Keep on 12/12 lighting. Keep males separately from each other and females. Allow air temperatures to reach 75-78F. Only provide water in a small dish under a hide.
At end of 30 day cycle, return to month one plan or wait an additional month for larger egg yields.(the longer you wait between restarting the cycle, the larger the clutch of viable eggs my replicated data shows) I usually wait another 90 days as I prefer 150-225 count clutches.
I am glad I no longer have to count eggs anymore. Fishing out eggs one at a time with a turkey baster becomes painful somewhere around halfway through the first of ten tanks...
This is intended as sort of a teaser. Next summer I will make the completed thesis available.
1. No I am not currently selling or planning to sell adults, juvies, eggs or anything else for the time being.
2. After very nearly losing the colony to low male numbers and a few male deaths I have completely recovered thanks to some juveniles from the original batches reaching sexual maturity and an emergency breeder trade.
3. Currently I have over 450 individuals at various ages all being raised up with the intent of establishing a very stable production colony.
4. I have perfected my husbandry techniques to the point I am no longer dependent on local seasonal weather. This has been one of my ultimate goals since the beginning. In fact I have better luck breeding kaiseri than I do axolotls or European newts.
5. I am not currently able to share my complete techniques and findings just yet as this encompasses a large portion of my thesis, which I am entering the closing stages of this semester.I am utterly exhausted with research and compiling data. Somehow I have to take a few years worth of daily data and digest it down to a useable format...and then write the paper without it remaining in the very scary looking near book format it is in right now.
The main point for this post however concerns temperatures. I have been able to replicate a compressed temperature cycling program based on temperature and water levels. By following this one can successfully get viable eggs envy 90 days.Yuo end up with an average clutch size of 58 eggs per laying by this method.
All of my ten gallon breeding tanks are in a six inch deep custom built trough that utilizes a modified computer CPU water cooler to circulate chilled water to maintain cold water temps without dropping air temps to significantly.
For the basic run down is this:
Month one: Terrestrial adults (males kept separately and individually)
Add water to the set-ups previously described in my previous reports at the rate of one inch per week. Air temps 72-78F. Water temps 68-70F. As water level goes up, temperature is dropped 3 degrees within 48 hours. Feed every other day as normal gradually increasing to daily the final week.12/12 lighting cycle slowly shifted to 8/16 cycle.
Month Two: Breeding and eggs
By this time the tanks are 50% full of water @ 55-60F. Females are all showing extended cloaca. Males are introduced. Feeding is kept daily, just before the lights go out. Eggs usually show up by day 21. Adults are removed and kept terrestrially back on 12/12 lighting. Adult temps brought back up to previous ranges. Daphnia, rotifers, moina, and macroinfusoria introduced to tank. Hatch and rear eggs as normal, maximum temp 70F until adult coloration forms, then slowly drop water depth to one inch. Then allow water to maintain ambient temperature and evaporate as juveniles enter terrestrial stage. rear terrestrial as one would any other small newt. (I have reared some aquatically, but I have replicated data that links lower mortality in terrestrial juveniles)
Month three: Prepping adults for next breeding cycle
Feed heavily daily with terrestrial isopods, crickets and similar small LIVE insects. Keep on 12/12 lighting. Keep males separately from each other and females. Allow air temperatures to reach 75-78F. Only provide water in a small dish under a hide.
At end of 30 day cycle, return to month one plan or wait an additional month for larger egg yields.(the longer you wait between restarting the cycle, the larger the clutch of viable eggs my replicated data shows) I usually wait another 90 days as I prefer 150-225 count clutches.
I am glad I no longer have to count eggs anymore. Fishing out eggs one at a time with a turkey baster becomes painful somewhere around halfway through the first of ten tanks...
This is intended as sort of a teaser. Next summer I will make the completed thesis available.