Basic (alkaline) PH Readings (8.4) ways to lower?

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AxolRose

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Scott
Just noticed after some testing that our local water seems pretty "hard" (island community) and the PH levels are around 8.4. From what I understand from my readings, neutral PH is desired, and the least stressful.

I am in the process of cycling, so my Axies are dealing with daily to 2 day water changes to keep ammonia levels down and the water chemistry in their current tank healthy until the big tank is done.

I am going to start trying to lower the PH (and daily at that). I have one 10 Gallon that acts as a staging tank (to remove chlorine) for the other 10 gallon. (Their current home). So i am going to be treating the PH in the staging tank the day before a change.

That leaves me one day to change the PH (AND) make sure once I get it to neutral, it doesn't fluctuate too much, as the latter also cause stress.

Any advice? Should I just wait till my cycled tank is done (4-6 weeks left AFAIK). Guess I am looking for the lesser of evils while I prepare their home.


- Note to potential Axolotl newbies, take my advice as one, read this site as much as possible and cycle a tank before you buy your Axolotls, or any other fish for that matter. I feel as though I hurried into the process, although spontaneity is something I am renown for...

Perhaps I just coddle the little guys too much...
 
Thanks!

I think

"To a fishkeeper, two aspects of pH are important. First, rapid changes in pH are stressful to fish and should be avoided. Changing the pH by more than .3 units per day is known to stress fish. Thus, you want the pH of your tank to remain constant and stable over the long haul. Second, fish have adapted to thrive in a (sometimes narrow) pH range. You want to be sure that your tank's pH matches the specific requirements of the fish you are keeping."

sums up my concern best...


I have read more since posting, and it seems carbon filtration (water filters) the PH as it is passed through, and the only viable method for changing PH quickly.. Any other thoughts are appreciated, I am going to look into a filter system, although since I am trying to lower 5 gallons of water a day, some kind of home made gravity fed thing may do the trick...

BTW on another water chemistry note, I was in the process of trying to determine if my local water company uses chlorine or chloramine, and came across this tidbit

"completion of several sewer system extension projects; improvements to the utility’s reclaimed water system; and an array of maintenance and replacement projects for the PSD’s water and sewer systems. Replacement projects include switching the disinfectant method used at the PSD’s drinking water wells from chlorine gas to liquid chlorine, as a public safety measure. "

This is due some time in 2008. I am guessing "liquid chlorine" = chloramine.

Anyone know otherwise?

Thanks for all the help!!

S
 
Meh..

"In recognizing the potential harm that may result from THM’s, the District began using chloramine as a substitute for chlorine in the disinfection process. Chloramine, a combination of ammonia and chlorine, suppresses the interaction and, therefore, retards the formation of THM’s.
Fact_S1.gif
Chloramine is more stable than chlorine, lasting longer and providing greater protection from bacterial contamination. In addition, chloramine prevents the taste and odor produced by the formation of THM’s."






- From the town website.. I have some treatment here I can add to my daily water changes, need to check to see how it removes what, as I have read some chlorine treatment has iron which can harm an axolotl.. (?)



:lol:
 
At the risk of having this thread turn into a shotgun blast of self awareness, allow me to summarize below:

- My local water is "basic" 8.4 and they (apparently) use chloramine

- I am going to use a very small amount of Prime to dechlorify, although ammonia levels in my tap water are zero.

- Trying to lower the PH seems a tough battle, especially when trying to do it daily because:

- I am cycling a new tank and changing water daily on my main 10 gallon tank

- I hear carbon can help to lower PH (like a carbon water filter)

- Bullet points are effective
 
Where did you take your pH reading? From the cycling tank, from the 10-gallon aging tank, or directly from the tap water? The pH will sometimes change as the water ages. Also, what kind of pH test kit are you using, and what is its range (the highest/lowest that it can measure)?

I don't think that liquid chlorine = chloramine. I think it's just another way of getting the chlorine into the water. But I could be wrong.

Adding peat moss or peat pellets is one way to naturally lower tank pH. But I'm not sure this is even necessary. Your pH may be fine where it is.
 
I have taken PH tests directly from the 10 Gallon aging tank. It was pretty "fresh from the tap". I am going to test again tomorrow, including directly from the tap. I am using an API Master Test Kit. It's labeled "salt water", although I have heard the differences are nil...

I had tested the water previous and had lower readings. I'll monitor them for a bit and see what transpires.

For what it's worth the town info website seems to indicate they use chloramine, although from the tap, ammonia levels are zero.

May just be a knee jerk response to the readings tonight...

S
 
I am not sure what you mean about ammonia levels being zero from the tap or why this is relevant to the chloramine. I was under the impression that of course this should be the case unless your city is sending dirty water to people's homes...

Anyway, that is just what I heard, I am pretty new at this so I could be wrong.
 
Saspotato said:
I am not sure what you mean about ammonia levels being zero from the tap or why this is relevant to the chloramine.
Click to expand...
If your tap water is treated with chloramine, it will test positive for ammonia, straight from the tap. Chloramine = chlorine + ammonia.

AxolRose: I would also suggest testing the pH in the cycling tank itself. Biological processes, such as those in an established aquarium, tend to push the pH toward the acidic end. This is why I think you probably won't need to make any adjustments.
 
I'm with Jen here. I don't think it will be necessary to modify the pH of your tank water.

The first problem is that a high pH such as the one you are reading is usually coupled with a very high carbonate hardness (KH.) Carbonate hardness measures the amount of carbonate/bicarbonate in the water. This pair of compounds is a buffer and helps the water resist changes in pH. This will make it really difficult to change the pH of your water as it will take a lot of acid to neutralize the buffer enough to change the pH.

Most keepers who need to lower the pH of alkaline water with a high KH are forced to use reverse osmosis to remove most of the impurities from the water. The water is then treated with chemicals to buffer the water and add trace minerals which can be a big pain.
 
Magustrate, jennewt

Thanks for the advice. retested today, and my PH readings are slightly lower in the cycling tank (8.0)... I'll just wait till it's ready and balanced from cycling and see how it holds out.

Just to be sure, the Saltwater and Freshwater test kits do or do not have any differences? (Like the color cards).. I would think there wouldn't be a difference, but the fact they label it as such has always irked me.


Thanks again!

S
 
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