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Daft question

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crof

Guest
I know this is probably a stupid question but I was wanting to keep a whites tree frog. However, my mum would never let me keep live waxworms, crickets etc in the house. Is there any dead food at all that they would eat?
 
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coen

Guest
Live food is always preferred over frozen/dead food.

Not being able to give a frog proper food, I personally wouldn't take one. Just wait untill you can decide for yourself, or maybe educate your mom about the live food, and that it won't eat her house and crawl in her sleeping room if taken care of properly ;)
 
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edward

Guest
I'm not sure I would want to make the blanket statement that live is always better than fresh frozen food items as food items that have been frozen for 2 weeks or more have a significant number of parasites killed via the freezing process.

Ed
 
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coen

Guest
Ed,

I didn't say it was better, I just said it was preferred above dead food.
 
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edward

Guest
Hi Coen,
It may be a language thing. I would have passed it over if the phrasing was preferred instead of "always preferred".

Ed
 
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coen

Guest
Hey Ed,

I guess so, sorry if I made it seem otherwise!

However, if you can provide a frog with the same food he would get in nature (without parasites), wouldn't this be the best way to take care of one? Plus, can a frog be trained to take dead food?
 
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alberto

Guest
Hello Coen
I have seen toads eating dog food from a dog food dish and my red efts and Chinese fire belly newts morphs eating dead crickets and pieces chopped worms that were not moving.
That is one of the things about keeping newts that I love. You are always learning some thing new about them!
 
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edward

Guest
Hi Coen,

Yes frogs can be trained to take dead food. It does depend on species and to a lesser extent individuals. For example American Bullfrogs (Rana catesbeiana)have been trained to take a pelleted food in commercial rearing facilities. Whites Treefrogs can be readily trained to take food off of tweezers (live or dead) and this can be readily achieved for many other anurans.

I would normally prefer feeding live foods as this causes the frog to engage in normal feeding behaviors but at this time (even if you rear it yourself) any live foods that cannot be guaranteed to be 100% parasite free. Many insects can act as vectors for parasites like coccidia and to prevent the infection of a animal would require that everything even small flies/roaches/spiders etc be excluded from not only the insect cultures but the enclosures in which the animals live. This is not a practical solution as it would also eliminate the ability to use natural furnishings such as wood and live plants...

Ed
 
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coen

Guest
That seems a bit unrealistic indeed. If your animal gets a parasite and you did everything like you should, it's more a case of bad luck right? Are the odds of getting a harmful parasite high?
 
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edward

Guest
Hi Coen,

My job is a Zookeeper with a fair amphibian collection. We routinely screen fecals from all of the animals twice a year and it is not uncommon for me to have amphibians come up positive for one or more parasites (mainly nematodes and coccidia) even after several years of clean fecals. This occurs even in animals that are captive bred and have only been fed cultured food item (like fruit flies).
I would say that it isn't uncommon and that the parasites picked up can be very harmful.

Ed
 
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coen

Guest
That must be a nice job Ed!

Should I be worried about my own fruitfly culture? Is there a way of telling they have parasites?
 
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edward

Guest
If you have something fine enough to keep the flies in the culture then they should be okay (unless you are using flies you caught yourself). The problem comes when you put them in the enclosure or use other insects for feeders.

Ed
 
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coen

Guest
Oh thats fine, I close my cultures with paper towels.

There is one problem, in my fruitfly mix (applesauce, oatmeal, yeast and some water) there is a development of mould. I think I might have used to little yeast, could this be the problem?
 
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alex

Guest
wow, i wish i could be a zookeeper, a bit of a dream job really...
 
General chit-chat
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  • axolotl nerd:
    betta*
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  • Asholotl:
    Just got to cycle the water. keep the water nice betas are pretty easy since they are very hardy, and they tend to glow once you give them the right attention. ive had a few. they are my go to fish to be honest.
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  • axolotl nerd:
    interesting.
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  • Nichill:
    Hi I'm a bit worried about our axolotl Berry she's approx 4 months old . She had a big meal yesterday of blood worm and today is very restless she's been swimming around all day and trying to get to the top sometimes not making it. Her tummy does seem really full even though she has had 2 poops . There's no gravel in her tank she's on sand . My water seems fine
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  • Nichill:
    Amonia 0 nitrite 0 and pH 7
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  • axolotl nerd:
    pictures would be very helpful- this could possibly be an emergency if it is something like bloat
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  • Nichill:
    I can't seem to upload a pic I've just searched bloat and it's nothing as severe as on there . How do I upload a pic
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  • Nichill:
    I have done another water check and my pH has gone down
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  • rads:
    Hey y’all! So I just had a quick question. I had a well established cycled tank. I added in a sand substrate that I had previously had in the tank (when it cycled the first time). It recycled and everything was golden. As I was re-adding it I noticed a smell to it but figured it was just “fish” smell. I also have a cat. Long story short, I think the cat managed to find the sand, pee in it, and because I was already suspicious I tested my tank just in case a few hours later to find my ammonia 2.0! I pulled my axolotl out and have done a 75% change. Prior to sand earlier today ammonia was 0. So do I add the ammonia blocker or stick to water changes?
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  • rads:
    The tank should be cycled but I believe the sand added too much ammonia that normally wouldn’t be an issue. So I’m thinking ammonia block for the next few days, but then won’t the ammonia just sit there since it can’t be processed? The safer bet is always going to be water changes I know,
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  • axolotl nerd:
    i have no words, honestly. this is like the time i accidentally dropped a worm in the sink and it was never heard from again, just a big “whoops” that i don’t know how to fix— my best advice//what i’d personally do is remove the sand entirely, remove all water, keep the filter media, and just recycle while your axie is tubbed. the sheer amount of ammonia in car urine is insane, and i’m impressed your axolotl survived
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  • rads:
    It was within the span of maybe two hours at most lol. I’ll do that and I have a second tank with lotls in it that has just enough room to temporarily keep them in it. I read up on it and decided to dose with ammo lock since it’s not a cycling tank and was cycled already along with water changes.
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  • JazAxolotl:
    Hello everyone :]
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  • axolotl nerd:
    hiiiii!! currently on my way to typing out a welcome speech on your thread :)
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    Aaa ty
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    Hello 🙂
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    Happy 2022 everybody! 😁
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  • DeCypher:
    I used to breed axolotls, since I was 14, and sell and barter with people here. Now I’m 24 and the axolotls are fancy breeds for a ton of money. Does anyone have 2 or 3 wilds?
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  • DeCypher:
    or leucistics
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  • Asholotl:
    I have a wild male with protein gene. I soon plan on getting a Lucy female soon.
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  • Nichill:
    Hi just need a bit of advice since I added plants to my tank (java fern ) my nitrate level has gone up to 0.5 what can I do to get them back down . My axolotl seems to love the plants so don't really want to take them out . Thanks
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  • britt6393:
    Hi new to forum and new to axolotl. Checked water parameters this am ph 7.6, high range ph 7.8, ammonia between 0 and 0.25 ppm, nitrate 5.0 ppm, nitrite 0. Should i water change or will this mess up the tank? Thank you
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  • bhollow:
    @britt6393, those water parameters sound good i dont think you need to do a water change. youd do one when the nitrates reach 20ppm
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    Hello Chat!
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