Okay, here's a pic. The worms are always attempting massive breakouts. Its kind of irritating to wake up to a graveyard of 30 dried worms all over your floor! Now I'm in the process of plugging up all the ventilation holes on the sides. Their food is starting to decompose a little more so hopefully they won't have as much of an urge to escape!
Sorry to dredge up an old post, but curious what size ventilation holes they can fit through? I am thinking of siliconing fiberglass insect screening in the middle of the lid instead, maybe a 3" vent hole or something?
They'll pretty much find their way through any hole size. Honestly I don't think ventilation is necessary; a loose fitting lid and periodically opening it up should be adequate. I have long since switched to a container with no ventilation or drainage, and the worms are just fine. I think the way I started this out is almost laughable.
Once the substrate was established, meaning there was plenty of microbial activity and decomposition going on, the worms stopped escaping almost entirely. They still climb the sides at night (they are nightcrawlers!), but its been a while since I've found any dried up carcasses on the floor.
As far as breeding goes, they are fairly consistent as long as ample food is provided. They don't mind a substrate like coconut fiber as long its mixed with plenty of 'edible' particles. Shredded cardboard and leaves are good amendments to serve this purpose. Fruits and vegetables that rot quickly should be used (avoid carrots and lettuce new setups). I have found that powdered dietary supplements (like that nasty organic stuff that people put in smoothies,or 'Superfoods') including ground up nuts and spirulina powder work VERY well as food for these worms. But once things start decomposing, almost anything works.
These worms are very moisture tolerant as well. I've kept their culture at an almost 'mud' moisture level for prolonged periods and they were just fine. There's even a small population living in the substrate in one of my planted aquariums. So don't worry if your newts fail to eat them.
Do you think they were getting out through the holes or the loose sides of the lid? I've heard there are gasket sealed plastic boxes one can buy, I might go with that if the regular sterilite lids are too insecure.
i highly recommend “buyanaxolotl.com”- ive purchased from them and received a beautiful animal for relatively cheap, in great condition, and excellent shipping precautions. the breeders are a couple living in georgia (i believe, don’t quite remember) and they’re fantastic. sometimes their website contact page doesn’t work, so i’d probably try just emailing them. good luck and happy hunting!
Hi all I'm new here I'm just looking some advise on cycle witch is currently driving me insane . So we are week 8 I'm dosing daily with 4pp of amonia and for the last week has been dropping to zero witch I no is good. But my question is my nitrites are sitting at between 0.50 and 1.0 PM and nitrates are between 10 and 20 and neither of these seem to be dropping. I have done 2 40% water changes a few days ago and no change the only thing I can think of is I didnt use the seachem stability stuff which I have now ordered but surely that shouldn't have much difference this far into cycling
Dropping ammonia with rising nitrate and nitrite is good. It means the nitrifying bacteria is working. You just have to remove the nitrate from the water doing water changes. The level of nitrates is high and the nitrate is also high. The nitrite will be converted to nitrate using the beneficial bacteria and you can add them using quick start or allowing them to naturally grow in the tank. The latter option will take longer. The nitrate can be used by plants, so live plants can decrease the levels, but I would do a water change to get the nitrate at a level that is lower than 5 ppm. 5ppm of nitrate is natural and a good place.