Back What's new
By:
Filters
Caudata.org: Newts and Salamanders Portal

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Did you know that registered users see fewer ads? Register today!

Fire salamander trouble

D

davidphotogsss

New member
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
13
Reaction score
0
Location
Amherst Ma.
When I was young and new to the hobby I had a pair of fire salamanders, both of which died. Years later I recently got a new fire salamander from a show. He ate 4 crickets right away, and has not eaten since. He is set up in a 10 gallon, sphagnum moss, hide areas and good temp. He hides constantly. I spray him every few days. I've been dropping in crickets, but because of the moss I don't know if they are dieing or being eaten. He wont touch trout worms or meal worms. He is cute as hell ,but I am completely stressed out that the little sonofa***** is going to die. Any thoughts or helpful advice? I don't want to freeze him, but I cant deal with the stress much longer.:mad:
 
A forest floor substrate like coco fiber and dried leaves would be better than sphagnum. What temp is he at? Over 70F is to warm for fire salamanders. If the crickets are gone maybe he is eating. Is he lethargic or skinny?
 
The sphagnum moss is not a good idea. Like Michael said, coco fiber, or even chemical free top soil would be much better.
Hiding is what fire salamanders do best. Even the healthiest animal will spend most of its time in some burrow or under some cover.
If you acquired an adult, it most likely is a wild-caught animal (illegally captured), and therefore you should expect it to be stressed. Optimal conditions are required for it to recover and have a chance of adapting. Avoid all stress, keep it cool and don´t insist with food too often as that will only prolong starvation if it´s not responding to it.
 
Last edited:
I wouldn't reccommend mealworms - they have a nasty bite. Try leaving a couple of waxworms or earthworms in there
 
michael said:
A forest floor substrate like coco fiber and dried leaves would be better than sphagnum. What temp is he at? Over 70F is to warm for fire salamanders. If the crickets are gone maybe he is eating. Is he lethargic or skinny?
Click to expand...



Thank you so much for the help. I appreciate it!! In Mass it gets warm in the afternoon, however we get the AC going about 3 o clock. He shows no signs of heat stress (climbing, pacing etc). He is fat and cute as hell. I still feel terrible about the pair I lost in my younger years. Since then I have maintained many reptiles, and bred california kingsnakes. I just want him to thrive! Thanks again. Dave
 
Azhael said:
The sphagnum moss is not a good idea. Like Michael said, coco fiber, or even chemical free top soil would be much better.
Hiding is what fire salamanders do best. Even the healthiest animal will spend most of its time in some burrow or under some cover.
If you acquired an adult, it most likely is a wild-caught animal (illegally captured), and therefore you should expect it to be stressed. Optimal conditions are required for it to recover and have a chance of adapting. Avoid all stress, keep it cool and don´t insist with food too often as that will only prolong starvation if it´s not responding to it.
Click to expand...



Thank you for your response, I appreciate it. Initially I had him in peat moss, he seemed to hate having it on his face. He spent time rubbing his face and even bathing to rid himself of it. I feel terrible that he may have been snatched from the wild, however I cannot help that now. I just want him to thrive. Should I go back to peat moss or is that bad? Is paper towels ideal for the moment in a quarantine type enclosure? I'm offering food every four days, does that seem ok? Also misting, how often. Thanks again. Dave:D
 
froggy said:
Hope you can get it to thrive. Incidentally, freezing a slamander is NOT a humane method of anaesthesia - it is extremely painful for the animal (see this article on caudata culture: Caudata Culture Articles - Euthanasia)

Good luck

C
Click to expand...


I'm sorry I said that, I did not literally mean it. I've just been frustrated. Thank you for your response, I appreciate it! Dave:D
 
Fire salamander substrate question??

What is wrong with sphagnum moss for the substrate? It is the only thing that does not stick to him! Any info is greatly appreciated.:confused:
 
Re: Fire salamander substrate question??

From the Caudata Culture Article:

"Sphagnum peat moss is generally not a recommended substrate for captive caudates. Decaying sphagnum moss has antibacterial and antifungal characteristics that can be desirable in vivaria; however these advantages come at the cost of potentially-dangerous low pH. While some keepers have used peat moss with success, it is important to note that there is batch-to-batch variability in the pH of peat, and there is also wide variation in particular species' tolerance for low-pH environments. Thus, as a general rule, this is a substrate to avoid. See below for more information on pH effects and testing."

In small quantities, sphagnum moss can be used (perhaps for a small mound that comprises no more than 5% of the surface area). But any more than that and it can affect the pH balance and cause not only water quality issues, but also health issues for your pet.

Caudata Culture Articles - Vivarium Substrates
 
Re: Fire salamander substrate question??

If you mix top soil and coco fiber, it doesn't stick to their skin. Just plain peat moss or coco-fiber alone sure does. A paper towel substrate is just fine, many fire salamander breeders use only paper towels long-term with good results. It just has to be changed every couple of days, and provide plenty of hiding places (as they cannot dig in it).
 
Last edited:
A great way of preventing the substrate from sticking to the animal is to cover the substrate with a layer of moss and leaf-litter. It not only prevents that problem, but also maintains humidity levels and provides shelter.
 
The pet store I use tells me that meal worms don't bite, but wax worms will, it's hard when my info is a complete contradiction. I believe you!
 
You dont need to change anymore, that's a good substrate. I use Exo terra plantation soil(coco husk) which is the same type of substrate as zoo med.
 
Thanks. I appreciate the info. So you don't think I need to add top soil? The coco fiber is currently sticking to him. My buddy who breeds frogs says that the sticking to his skin should subside. Do you agree? I do feel better knowing that it's okay for him to digest the coco fiber. Any thoughts on unbleached paper towels? I should just see how he does for now I suppose.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
General chit-chat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
    There are no messages in the chat. Be the first one to say Hi!
    Top