Getting non feeding bufo viridis to eat

Drayvan

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Basically 2 weeks ago, I bought 3x 1cm European Green Toadlets. 2 have been fantastic, the other was pretty thin, so i separated him, he shows nothing but fear towards food such as ff's and small crickets. he has eaten 3 calci worms and thats about it however he has passed about 5 poos so his digestive system is doing ok. Anyone got any tips on what i can do? Im getting hold of some rehydration fluid to see if that helps but any other tips would be great!
 

Coastal Groovin

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You can try other food items like dwarf isopods or white worms but some morphs will always fail to thrive. It's just natures way.
 

ajr104

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Keep offering him food but at the same time to not offer too much food, so not to bother him, and try not to interfere with him too much. This will eliminate stress. Unfortunately, some froglets/toadlets will not survive, it is sad but that is why these animals have lots of babies.

Did you get these from dartfrog? Do you have any pictures? I noticed they had some at the moment.
 

Drayvan

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Thanks both, iv tried him on bloodworms and daphnia today, which got him snapping at them a little but whether any were eaten im not sure...iv just left him with some more calci worms and a cricket or 2, will check on him later.

They were indeed from Dartfrog, and apart from the skinny one, they've been brilliant and healthy.

Heres the skinny one 2 days ago after he decided to eat 2 calci worms and put a little weight on, hes normally a fair amount skinnier, as he is now.


And heres the 2 healthier ones, who I couldnt be happier with!

 

Drayvan

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Managed to get the little fella to eat 2 crickets in the early hours of the morning :D sooo happy. Still going to be a struggle I think but its a great start. Any more tips greatly appreciated!
 

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Give the toads a basking lamp. This species basks a lot and will do a lot better, particularly as toadlets, when provided with a basking site. You can use a normal incandescent bulb to provide temperatures of around 25C in the hottest spot (they will use hotter, but for small toads a slightly cooler temp will prevent problems of getting too dry), with a cooler end at the other end of the tank.You will be suprised by how much time they spend under the bulb and how much more the feed and grow with access to it. Just make sure that the cool end of the tank is kept moist and a water dish in placed there, too.

UVB light may also be beneficial, which should be provided at the hot end of the tank so that they are exposed while basking.

Also, be careful with calciworms; lots of toads I have fed them to pass them undigested, so they don't get any nutrients or energy from them.

Good luck

C
 

Drayvan

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Give the toads a basking lamp. This species basks a lot and will do a lot better, particularly as toadlets, when provided with a basking site. You can use a normal incandescent bulb to provide temperatures of around 25C in the hottest spot (they will use hotter, but for small toads a slightly cooler temp will prevent problems of getting too dry), with a cooler end at the other end of the tank.You will be suprised by how much time they spend under the bulb and how much more the feed and grow with access to it. Just make sure that the cool end of the tank is kept moist and a water dish in placed there, too.

UVB light may also be beneficial, which should be provided at the hot end of the tank so that they are exposed while basking.

Also, be careful with calciworms; lots of toads I have fed them to pass them undigested, so they don't get any nutrients or energy from them.

Good luck

C

Thanks :) will give that a go. Tonight has been the 3rd night in a row that he has eaten so im over the moon he's on the mend, hopefully the bulbs will be a good boost for him too. Incase any one is wondering or having similar problems, hes taking bean weevils and crickets at the moment. Thankfully he went off the calci worms.. really didnt like the idea of him having those as a staple!
 

ajr104

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Great news, probably just took some time to settle, not unusual but always worrying as they loose weight quick and put it back on slowly! Taken me s few months to get weight on my baby H.arborea (also from dartfrog, all fairly skinny on arrival)
 

Drayvan

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Great news, probably just took some time to settle, not unusual but always worrying as they loose weight quick and put it back on slowly! Taken me s few months to get weight on my baby H.arborea (also from dartfrog, all fairly skinny on arrival)

It is indeed, when he went so skeletal i was really scared he wasnt going to pull back from it. But 4th night in a row hes eaten, got him on 2 feeds a day now hes taking them and has eaten 6 crickets during the day :) really putting some weight back on now!

I should think its fairly common with species that have such huge amounts of babies that some will get out competed by their siblings. Hope all your H.aborea are doing well now though :)
 

ajr104

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Hope all your H.aborea are doing well now though :)

They are all fatties now! Just as well, cooling them down in the garage this winter, they may well hibernate if it gets cold enough in there so keeping their weight on will be important.
 

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Hi, In addition to the fine suggestions offered, you may want to think about the substrate..not sure of ID, but seems to stick eassily to toads etc...blockaged not uncommon, even though they swallow soil etc in wild. Always good to vary diet; I favor wild caught insects (if care is taken)...found throughout my career that novel foods often get an enthusiastic response. Further ideas, suggestions here: Frog Diets - Nutritious Foods for Popularly-Kept Frogs and Toads best, Frank
 
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    Hey @Junaz. It appears your tank is uncycled. You'll need to purchase a source of ammonia (i.e., Dr. Tim's Aquatics ammonium chloride) to cycle the tank with. Dose the tank up to 2ppm (bottle says 4 drops/gal=2ppm. This is false. 2 drops/gal=2ppm) daily until you've build up a bacteria colony that is able to convert 2ppm of ammonia into 0ppm ammonia and 0ppm nitrite in 24hr. You'll want to tub your axolotl immediately and while you cycle as these levels are extremely toxic. To tub, just use a food-grade tub large enough for the axolotl to extend itself and turn around in, and perform daily 100% water changes. Make sure your water is dechlorianted (and make sure your dechlorinator has no aloe or iodine, both of these are toxic to axolotls). If you have any more questions about cycling or axolotls, PM me :)
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    Hi, Im fairly new to keeping axolotls. I have to lil buddies that I got a few months back. They were doing fine, up until a month ago when one got fungus in his gills. Took him out to fridge him, then the other guy got it too. I'm currently fridging both and doing salt baths for one (not enough fridge space to keep that much pretreated water for both at the same time). Its been hard to tell if its helping or not and then about a week and half ago one of my axies had a bunch of weird white goop in the water. I immediately changed it, happened a tiny bit again, then seemed to be okay. I had returned him to the tank, but it happened again. Back to the fridge but wanted hear from people who knew more
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    I have pictures. Tried looking through other peoples questions, but couldnt find the same white goop.
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    @Kailynom My cousin (who i got my baby axies from) had the same problem. She developed an allergy to the bloodworms she was feeding them and it got really bad. To the point where her throat would close up just being around the bloodworms. Happened within a few months. Be safe :)
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  • madcaplaughs:
    @MadamePirateOwl Fridging is best left to life-or-death situations, and salt baths are unnecessarily harsh, stressful, and abrasive. I'd suggest doing tea baths instead (using caffeinated black tea, where the only ingredient is black tea).
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    so no idea what the goop is?
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  • madcaplaughs:
    Hard to tell without a photo, but might be algae or fungus floating. Water changes will take care of that.
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    It definitely came from the axolotl. Looked to be mixed into poo the first time. Can I post the photos here?
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    Im not actually sure how i would post it. It seems to want a link
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    Its fairly thick and chunky
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    (Also thanks for your patience and help!)
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  • madcaplaughs:
    You could always upload the photo to imgur and link it back here
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    The second image was how it looked the first time, it was mixed with some other poop like stuff. after that its been small and without the poopy stuff
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  • madcaplaughs:
    The second photo looks reminiscent of partially-digested worms, though I've never seen anything like that. Have you checked your parameters lately?
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    Right now theyre in smaller tubs that i do daily water changes in
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    I'll admit Ive bought test strips but they havent come in yet
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    I use Prime to dechlorinate the water, which was recommend by the girl I got them from
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  • madcaplaughs:
    For now I'd tub the axolotl and do daily 100% water changes until you're able to test your parameters
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  • madcaplaughs:
    I'd also recommend ordering a liquid test kit such as the API Freshwater Master Test Kit since strips are generally unreliable and inaccurate.
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  • MadamePirateOwl:
    Okay, thank you for your help and advice :)
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    anybody growing tylototriton?
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