hello I recently got an axolotl on Saturday and I have a few questions/concerns if anyone is willing to help? I am very new to this although I have done my best to research enough I worry I'm not doing well.
1.i have some junior axolotl pellets (1.5mm)and I was told to feed them 1 twice a day however the pellets are very small and I wanted to check if this is correct? I also have blood worms so is it ok if I feed them pellets everyday and then blood worms once a week?
2.i am having struggles with the temperature and keeping it down, I have a lid on the tank so I cant use aquarium fans all the time tho I was thinking of getting one for when I'm in the room so I can make sure they dont jump out when the lid is not on,will this work?any other suggestions as well please
3.I have a 12.5 gallon tank with an internal filter that came with it and it seems to be working ok,is this ok for an axolotl?
4. also rn my ph is about 7.9 and I am planning on lowering tomorrow with something I bought, and my nitrite is <0.3mg/l. I have an ammonia test on the way so I can check that. is there anymore tests i should be doing?
anymore advice on anything is appreciated, I want to be a good owner for them!
thank you
Welcome! I'll see what I can do to answer your questions.
1. The amount that you feed an axolotl depends on, well, the axolotl (size, age, metabolism, etc.). From your description, I would guess that you likely have a pretty young one. The smallest/youngest that I have personally dealt with was about 5 inches long when I got him. I typically fed him about 6-8 similarly sized pellets every day, but I was also trying to fatten him up as the previous owner hadn't fed him enough.
The amount you feed should be based on two things: how long it takes for it to eat and how wide it is. Generally, it shouldn't take them more than a couple minutes to eat. If they start refusing food, they're done for the day. Regarding weight, the ideal weight is when (as observed from directly overhead) the widest part of its body is about the same width as the widest part of its head (excluding the gills). If it seems too far in either direction, you may have to change the schedule or food type. As axolotls mature, their metabolism slows down, so they don't need to be fed as often.
Please check your pellets to see how much protein they have. Axolotls require lots of protein, so your pellets should be at least 40%. Bloodworms once a week sounds fine. They should be used as more of a treat than as nutrition since they don't have a lot of nutrients.
The ideal axolotl food, however, is european/Canadian nightcrawlers or red wigglers (though red wigglers have a slime coat that some axolotls dislike). I typically suggest that, once your axolotl is around 5-6 inches long, you start to transition them to a diet of primarily worms, though it's good to keep a varied diet. You will have to cut them up a bit. Start by just cutting them in half and if that goes down without a problem, you're good. If not, you may have to do smaller pieces.
2. One thing you can try is to get a mesh wire lid, like what is used on reptile tanks. You won't be able to clip fans to the rim, but you can prop them on top. Chillers are always a good (though expensive) option as well. One of the best ways to keep it cool is by lowering the ambient temperature in the room using air conditioning.
3. A 12.5 gallon is okay (not great, but okay) for a juvenile axolotl, but once it reaches 6-7 inches long, you should be prepared to move it into a 20 gallon long aquarium, which is the minimum size tank for an adult axolotl. Regarding your question about the filter, it's difficult to say not knowing what kind it specifically is. Assuming you followed the directions with the filter and have it set up properly, the main issue you may run into with axolotls is that the flow rate will be too high. If it's adjustable, lower it as far as you can and keep an eye out for signs of stress due to high flow such as curled forward gills or the axolotl not being able to stand still without being pushed by the current. If either of these happen, something needs to change.
4. I personally use SeaChem Regulator to reduce the ph of my water from about 8.3 to 7.4, and it also helps get rid of chlorine, chloramines, heavy metals, and detoxifies ammonia, so I would recommend it. Your nitrites are high, which is not abnormal in a cycling tank. It does mean that you should be doing water changes of about 50% every 12 hours until the tank is fully cycled. To test this, you should be testing ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates every day until fully cycled and then once a week after that. Since test strips tend to be unreliable, I would HIGHLY recommend using API's Masterclass Freshwater Kit. It's relatively expensive, but super accurate, reliable, and will last you about 4-5 years.
If you're looking for any further info on tank set up or anything, post some photos! And if you need any info/advice, I'd be happy to help out; feel free to message me as well, since I'm on here pretty frequently right now.
