Pet Litoria Frogs

FireStar

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I have pet Green and Golden Bell Frogs, Litoria aurea, and South Bell Frogs, Litoria raniformis, and I imagine a few hybrids. They all came from the same pond as tadpoles, bar one. My frog set up cost me nothing. My grandfather gave me an old fish tank with a crack. Even though we tried to repair it, it still leaks. Anyway, I use my mum's casserole dish as their swimming pool. Easy to take out, clean and refill:eek:.

But lately, when the frogs swim, they kick all the water out of the pool making the entire tank water logged. I go through a roll of paper towels a week trying to absorb all the water back out and I'm afraid that the tank might start leaking.

Does anyone have tips/advice on how to stop my tank being water logged? A full clean out is an option but I don't think it would solve the problem.

Quick question, with so much water everywhere, can the frogs develop a fungal infection?
 

esn

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Most people use a layer of hydro balls (clay balls, should come up on google user hydro balls for terrariums) or gravel at the least a few inches deep, then mesh between that and your normal substrate. It collects the excess water at the bottom of the tank, keeping your substrate from getting too wet. I know coco fiber turns into a lovely soup sometimes if the water doesn't drain properly. The best solution is to redo the tank to add hydro balls and mesh.

There are also DIY projects for false bottoms, but that's all a little too complex for me. The other method is easier.
 

FireStar

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Thanks for pointing me in the direction of hydro balls. It took me ages to find someone that sold them in NZ. I'm planning to get a (much needed) bigger tank so redo it is not a problem.

So was thinking, a layer of hydro balls, then a layer of sand (filtration), then a layer of potting mix (for planting stuff) and then a layer of Sphagnum moss. I can't find any live moss so would the dead stuff used in hanging baskets work?

I also had a look at the false bottom thing. They look so cool! But maybe a project of another time. And yes, it looks like a very complicated:p
 

esn

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As long as the dead moss isn't dyed, I don't see why not. I usually use moss from my area, as a lot of it grows here in the rainy NW of the U.S. Pet stores or gardening centers will usually sell bags of moss as well, but make sure it isn't dyed.
 

FireStar

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My local pets stores and gardening centres don't sell live moss. Nor does my local auction site, save the stuff for hanging baskets. I tried growing moss in my tank that I found in my garden, but doesn't work out.

Everything I try to grow in the tank dies :eek:
Do you have any suggestions for plant life?

And I really appreciate all the help and advice you're giving me Elena!:D
 

FireStar

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Does it matter than the hydro balls are dyed?
They would be the bottom layer anyway
 
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    What’s even weirder is I have a few live plants in the tank which I thought absorb nitrates. I’m wondering if maybe there’s some dead plant matter or something?
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  • maddyb9903:
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  • maddyb9903:
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    Hi again guys! So my axie is currently in a tub and I did a large water change and my nitrates are still super high!! It looks like they maybe went down like 10 ppm. I am so confused and concerned. Should I be waiting until tomorrow to test the water again? Do I need like time after a water change to get accurate readings?
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    I don’t understand what could be going on. There is no dying plant matter and I siphoned the sand and got as gunk much as I possibly could out of it. Could it maybe be the filter or something?
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  • Sefagula:
    What is the nitrate reading? Nitrates are fine to have in limited quantities, 5-15 ppm. The presence of nitrates suggests that your tank is cycled or atleast somewhat cycled. Check nitrites and ammonia since those will be the ones that will harm your axolotl the most.
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  • Sefagula:
    If you want your filter to be more effective, you can add some additional filter media such as bio balls or a foam sponge to increase the surface area that beneficial bacteria can reside on. I'm not sure what type of filter you use but canister filters and certain HOB filters such as the aquaclear have additional compartments for filter media.
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    @Sefagula, hi! I mentioned the nitrate level higher up in the chat, I’m realizing I should of stated it again for anyone new. My nitrates were reading above 80 ppm out of the blue. The other day when I checked they were at 10. It makes no sense. Nitrites and ammonia are 0. So strange right?
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    Im going to keep doing water changes until I can keep the nitrates below 20. I have my axie in a tub with dechlorinated water and will change the water daily until I can get her back in the tank. She started acting funky a few days back after I did a water change, barely eating and lethargic. She seems to be doing better in the tub
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  • Sefagula:
    80 ppm is extremely high and will definitely be harmful to your axolotl. I would strongly recommend getting the API freshwater test kit to get an accurate recording of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.
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  • Sefagula:
    Also, since your axolotl is in a tub, you don't need to do as many water changes to your original tank. If you do too many water changes, it will stall the cycle and take longer for beneficial bacteria to build up
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    don’t worry, I have the kit. Ammonia and nitrite are reading 0. I was shocked to see the nitrate so high, especially with no ammonia. It makes no sense and is really confusing me
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  • Toothpickthelotl:
    okay, how often should I do water changes while she’s in the tub? Do u have any advice for getting the nitrates down?
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  • Sefagula:
    Water changes are really your best bet for getting nitrates down. I would do 25-30% every week since you're doing fishless cycling and you don't have to worry about anything being harmed
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  • Sefagula:
    My bad I keep saying to get the API test kit. I keep thinking I'm talking to different people
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  • Sefagula:
    Ammonia and nitrites should be at zero or close to zero. A cycled tank means that there's really only the presence of nitrates. However you do have too much. Try another 30-40% water change and see what the nitrate levels are.
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    Sefagula: Ammonia and nitrites should be at zero or close to zero. A cycled tank means that there's really... +1
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