Hello All,
I reconnected with a friend who had an axolotl. She moved into an apartment where they wouldn't allow her to have a fish tank. She gave it to her mother who didn't know how to take care of the fish or what it even was. After visiting with her I asked to see her fish and she directed me to her tank. She fish looked so skinny and awful. I begged her to let me take it and nurse it back to health (if possible.) The container was a temp container I put it in so I could set up a new tank and cycle that water. I gave it some pellets to eat, It also had some blood worms. Please advise me on what to do.
Well, first, an axolotl is an amphibian, not a fish. It may seem like a very small distinction, but it's really important since, like many amphibians, axolotls absorb things through their skin. This means that their water must be very good. It's also important because a lot of products that are safe for fish (water conditioners, food, etc.) are NOT safe for axolotls.
You mentioned that you had a tank cycling. Is it now fully cycled? If not, you will need to do 50% water changes every 12 hours or so until it is fully cycled.
Here's a list/description of the bare minimum things you will need:
-Aquarium: you will need at least a 20 gallon long
-Filter: I really recommend sponge filters, which are easy to set up, work well, and don't have a super strong current
-air pump: this powers the filter. I recommend a Tetra whisper pump.
-airline tubing: again, goes with the filter
-aquarium thermometer: axolotl water temperature must be below 70 Fahrenheit. Ideal temperature range is 62-65 degrees F.
-water test kit: API's Masterclass Freshwater Kit is best. Do not use strip tests, as these have a reputation of being inaccurate. This is one of your most important tools. Your readings should come out as such with a fully cycled tank:
Ph: 7.2-7.6
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: below 40
Any other readings can mean something really problematic is happening.
-Earthworms: these are the ideal food source for axolotls. European or Canadian nightcrawlers are the best, though red wigglers can work too. Bloodworms work for very young axolotls who can't eat the larger worms even when they're cut up, but they cannot be a long term food option because they're basically the potato chip of the axolotl world. Pellets designed specifically for amphibians work too; I personally use Invert Aquatics (on Amazon) but many other owners also recommend Hikari sinking pellets
-5 gallon bucket: this helps you do water changes/treatments
-siphon: very important tool for doing water changes
-water conditioner: you will need this to remove chlorine and chloramines from tap water. Seachem Prime is perfect for this as it also helps to detoxify ammonia and is not toxic for axolotls
Other things that you should get ASAP, but aren't urgent:
-aquarium fan or chiller: this helps keep the water at a good temperature
-hides: helps your axolotl feel safe. Can be as simple as a terracotta pot or PVC pipe.
-plants: ideally use live plants. This will help deal with the nitrates and provide some amusement. Many axolotl owners use marimo moss balls.
Always be sure to thoroughly clean EVERYTHING before putting it into the aquarium, but never ever EVER use soap.
