Not very nutritious, waxworms, and their skin is hard to digest. I would suggest earthworms, excellent food when you're able to catch 'm yourself. I offer the worms on a tankcentre feedingplatform just above waterlevel: just drop the worm; it'll be caught long before it can crawl off.
I try to feed woodlice every year to the toadlets
i'm breeding; not very succefull due to their rather static behaviour; moving food is far more attractive, i.e. drosophila. And they often seem to be distastefull, depending on the plants they live on.
I think you have waxworms confused with mealworms. Waxworms are one of the most nutritionally complete feeder items BUT have an extremely high fat content, so can lead to obesity. They also have a soft outer body (since they're a moth larva) and most animals take to them quite readily.
When I feed waxworms and the like to my animals, some of them I drop in front of them and they take it, others I offer from tweezers and they grab them up. Depends on the animal and its personality really.
just to echo the last posts,wax worms are an excellant source of protiens and vits,but are fatty.I feed my salamanders/toads wax worms every fourth feed or so ,as part of a diet made up of black and brown crickets,earthworms(thanks to the excellant dietry advice of Mike East)and the occasional pinkie.
I generally leave the waxworms in a shallow tray to avoid ingestion of substrate.
I have kept Bombina orientalis,Bombina bombina and Bombina variegata. I have found all to be very hardy and interesting captives.I found they are best kept in communal groups suited to the size of your particular tank.I kept mine in a 70 /30 % tank (30 %land).The water section was heavily planted with aquatic plants (in small pots)with a graval base.A small fluval filter was in place. The water was not heated,and the tank was in a cool room ( for houseing salamanders).I rarely saw the toads on land,they prefered to lay on the heavy plant growth on the waters surface.( i recommend a reasonable UV tube to aid plant growth)
I mixed species, and this did not seem to present a problem (I dont know if the two European species naturally interbreed in their range)
I fed mainly vit loaded crickets,waxworms and woodlice.
They call quite often,this is cute at first but can be irritating if you get it through your favorite episode of Bargin Hunt or supermarket sweep.
Hope this is of some use.( I was joking about bargin hunt /super market sweep,honest)
As I said,I no longer keep bombina,(lack of space ,rather than lack of interest )The water depth was approx five inches,it was a Fluval 1.As for tank size,asalways as big as you can.I did not have plants on the land section,only wild collected moss.I would think ivy,or ferns would do ok.Iwould endevour twohousemore than twoif you can,they are very social and easy (relatively) breeders.
Artificial plants (silk ivy) hanging in a thick layer against the backgroundscreen provide a lot of great junglelike hidingspots very much appreciated by the toads: looks good, easy to clean (once a year).
The "landpart" in my bombinarium (20%) consists
of bricks and woodlogs.
Bombina needs a lot of light to flourish and appreciates a weak baskingspot and a lot of ventilation very much. Watertemperature 20-23C.
A cool winterperiod of some 3 months (10 - 15C.)together with shortened days (8 hours)will trigger reproduction in spring.
The menu of my toads consists almost entirely of earthworms (also moths, slugs and occaisional flies and spiders).
With good care Bombina can grow old. I take care of the same animals already for over 17 years now.
Extremely impressive to have kept the same bombina for 17 years.A real labour of love,good on yer mate.
I wish you every success for the future.All this talk of bombina is making me want to get some again,but I think limited space ,a growing salamander collection and a new wife means I will stick to my Marine,Roccoco,crested,smooth sided and pygmy toads.
After i lost a group of 8 Bombina due to some infection (without quarantine i, stupid, added a female, which destroyed the whole group within one month), i got the present group of 10 adult (some semi) toads in spring 1986, wildcaught, from Southern Manchuria, 7 females and 3 males.
They breed every year although i noticed the amount of (fertile) eggs diminishing over the last 5 years for some reason. Age?
Btw, you do have quite a collection of toads yourself. Any breedingresults?
As a toadaddict, do you have any experience concerning Melanophrinicus stelzneri. Just curiosity.
Sorry to hear about your loss,It is always a risk introducing new blood stock.It is still a massive acheivemnt to keep a colony for so long.
I have kept bumblebee toads before.Very cute little fellahs.I had mine in a relatively small viv,with cushion moss over pea shingle,and piles of cork bark.They seemed to thrive on number2 black crickets.I swapped them for a nice Cramwelli.I have three,Iwould desperately like a cornuta (I have ornata) but they are hard to get in the uk.I alsohave Solomaon islands eyelash frogs,they are awsome,get some if you can.
@sde, hi everybody I'm getting a tiger salamander coming from Katy Texas what are the shipping conditions that's okay to have them shipped to me in the state of Vermont it's just starting to get the temperature low above 45 but it may be too hot to ship him any thoughts or ideas on how to work this out
I currently have a 3 year old axolotl, he hasn't been eating for the past couple of weeks and has lost a lot of weight. Hedwig usually eats bloodworms and earthworms just fine but now he won't even stud it. I've done a water change to make his nitrate lower and his water is at a good temperature
Hey guys I was wondering if my axolotl looks fine to you he/she (still don’t know) I’d activate and eating as usual but I did notice veins in the tail area.. let me know what you guys think! Also if anyone could tell if it’s a boy or girl that would be great! (Zolo was eating a worm and pretty sure the worm pooped XD)