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Desmognathus fuscus/conanti

M

mark

Guest
After a couple of months of trail and error I think I’ve created a set-up that fits the bill for Desmognathus fuscus/conanti. Their first set-up had hides of both cork and slate with varying depths of water from 1cm through to completely dry. Their preference was for the rock and a water depth of ~ 1-2mm although the suitability of the hide primarily relies on how snug it is, the smaller the gap the better. Hides that had more than 1cm of height were rejected in preference for tighter gaps. Aquatic hides are also used where the animal can safely stick it’s head out of the water without being too exposed. Essentially they have a preference for tight, wet spaces which offer the smallest amount of exposure. This set-up is made up entirely of slate piled up and gives them a large area of hides.
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The water at the front of the tank is about 2 inches deep. I’ve occasionally seen them in the water at night but they tend to prowl around the shore line. I started off with a powerhead that created a stream effect over the rocks but the heat it generated was too great, so I’ve replaced it with a long air stone bubbler which creates water movement and splashes the rocks to keep them wet.
I haven’t seen any territorial behaviour but have witnessed squabbles over food. When they find a preferred hide they tend to jam themselves in like sardines and are tolerant of each other.
65153.jpg

They are good feeders and despite being wild caught already accept food offered in tweezers.
Does anyone have pictures of desmog set-ups they wish to share? I’d be interested to hear others experiences with this species. Any captive breeding success?
 
W

william

Guest
I like the set-up Mark! I might use something similar myself. currently mine are in bark and moss with a water reservoir.
 
C

chris

Guest
I hiding habits, these seem very similar to my Hynobius (I know, unrelated apart from their both being caudates...). I use those insulation/decorative bricks you can get - the ones with the holes cut into them. These are half submerged in water and topped in moss, so that you get sort of apartment blocks ranging from below the water line all the way up to pretty dry. Thesalamanders never have to stick moore than their head out unless they are at the botoom of the water area, and the moss provides some screening fromthe front.

The pic below is extremely terrible, and the setup has changed since it was taken, but you can see the bricks I mean (white arrows where the holes are visible). This type of brick surrounds the hole water area, the rest consists of broken pottery and bits of other things, all covered with moss.
Chris

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M

mark

Guest
I think Chris is showing us his H.dunni set-up as a comparison, Will. I've seen a few members using those bricks, I may have to get myself some. Do they sell them at B&Q?

When they move they are quite eel like in appearance and can squeeze themselves into the tightest gaps in rocks.
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  • Shane douglas:
    with axolotls would I basically have to keep buying and buying new axolotls to prevent inbred breeding which costs a lot of money??
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  • Thorninmyside:
    Not necessarily but if you’re wanting to continue to grow your breeding capacity then yes. Breeding axolotls isn’t a cheap hobby nor is it a get rich quick scheme. It costs a lot of money and time and deditcation
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  • stanleyc:
    @Thorninmyside, I Lauren chen
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  • Clareclare:
    Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus Japanese . I'm raising them and have abandoned the terrarium at about 5 months old and switched to the aquatic setups you describe. I'm wondering if I could do this as soon as they morph?
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    Clareclare: Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus... +1
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