Gut loading crickets

D

denise

Guest
Can you tell me what I use to gut load my crickets for my fire belly toads. I really don't want to purchase the commercially prepared gut loads nor that cricket water. I know that giving them a potato or apple/orange will take care of their fluid requirements but what do I feed them so that they are beneficial for my toads.
 
I always use good quality fish food flakes along with lettuce, chopped carrot etc, but there's some disagreement as to if this makes any difference to the nutritional value of the crickets.
 
Hi Morg,
This does make a difference as long as the crickets are fed the food for at least 48 hours. What it does not change is the calcium content of the insects. I need a nap so if there is interest I can post more later.....

Ed
 
Hi Ed, I would love to hear more of what you have to say about gut loading crickets.
 
Well you can read about it next month in Reptiles Magazine...(although the editing changed what I wrote somewhat)..

In short there are two forms of gut loading that are mutually exclusive. In the first one, you are correcting the loss of protiens, fat and trace nutrients lost in shipping or by being held at the pet store. To accomplish this, you feed a diet similar to what Morg does for a minimum of 72 hours. (I use crushed dried dog food, fish flakes, Repta-min (or Reptile-ten and oranges for the most part). You should avoid items like spinach or other oxalic acid containing vegetables as the oxalic acid binds the calcium and prevents its use by the animal (note veggies high in calcium are often high in oxalic acid). You should also limit items in the Brassica family (such as kale, broccoli, ect) as these are potentially goitrogenic.
The second one in attempting to use a high calcium cricket diet to provide calcium to the consuming animals. If this is your goal then you should swith to this diet after 24 hours on a regular diet and offer only this diet and water for the next 48 hours. If you give then any other options the crickets will avoid the high calcium diet and consume the other items. After 48 hours the crickets begin to die from the high calcium diets and need to be fed out to the various aniamls. If you forget to give them water on a high calcium diet the crickets will die in a matter of hours.
Also offering calcium in this manner has been shown to raise the serum calcium in some but not all animals fed the crickets.

Ed
 
Ed
Im glad to hear you say that gut loading does make a difference.
I got into this topic on a reptile forum a long while back, and people there were adamant that plain bran was all the crickets needed, and that anything else was a waste of time.
 
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>Edward Kowalski (Ed) wrote on Friday, May 14, 2004 - 21:18 :</font>

"The second one in attempting to use a high calcium cricket diet to provide calcium to the consuming animals. If this is your goal then you should swith to this diet after 24 hours on a regular diet and offer only this diet and water for the next 48 hours. If you give then any other options the crickets will avoid the high calcium diet and consume the other items."<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

So what types of items do I feed for the 24 hours?

Are carrots an okay food to feed them?

Do I dust the food with the calcium powder?
Do I still dust the crickets with this powder after feeding them in the manner you describe for 96 hours?
 
Hi Morg, Denise
It does make a difference and there is literature vindicating you (and basically the herp literature is the same on this topic). I did a review of amphibian nutrition for a hopefully upcoming journal (check out http://www.tracyhicks.com/aha.htm for details)
but the printing date keeps getting pushed back.

Most of the fruits and vegetables are fine to feed them as long as the two major groups I mentioned are avoided for some of the oxalic acid containing veggies see http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/Data/Other/oxalic.html I would strongly limit (or not use at all) any veggie with a level of greater of 1gram/100 grams, use sparingly any with a level above .5 grams/100 grams. Here is another good site for nutritional information. http://www.nagonline.net/
The insects should be dusted right before they are fed to the herps. If you calcium dust the food the crickets will ignore any parts that are dusted with the calcium. I'm not sure where the 96 hours came from.. Its 72 hours to normally gutload/replace lost nutrients or 24 hours on the standard diet plus 48 hours on the calcium loading diet before they are fed out. Remember on the calcium loading diet the mortality of the crickets rapidly rises on the calcium diet so you need to set up as many crickets as you are going to use 48 hours later on the calcium diet and may not want to place the whole batch on the calcium diet to prevent too many deaths...

Ed
 
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