Here are some problems and solutions.
Good captive conditions are described on the Housing Page. Under the conditions described there, it is very unlikely that an axolotl will succumb to disease. Nevertheless, ill-health can occur, and it is important that the hobbyist be equipped to deal with problems, if and when they arise.
Stressed animals, whether they be axolotls, dogs, cats, or even people, are more likely to fall sick than comfortable animals. The most common stresses that lead to disease in axolotls are water flow (too powerful a filter in your tank) and temperatures over 24 °C. Other stresses include foul water (the result of inadequate water changes), sudden temperature changes, untreated tap water, parasites, and other tank companions (such as fish). Water quality is probably the most important consideration when it comes to your animal's health. Ammonia or nitrite build-up from inadequate biological filtration (or, in an unfiltered aquarium, lack of regular water changes), can be fatal in a matter of days if left unchecked.
Some hobbyists in temperate regions maintain axolotls in outdoor ponds. These ponds may even ice over during the winter. Provided the winter isn't particularly harsh or long, axolotls can do quite well under outdoor conditions. Obviously, a food source must be present during the rest of the year.
Temperatures above 24 °C (75 °F) are very stressful to axolotls. Such temperatures cause metabolism to increase (the rate at which the body "works"), and consequently, an increase in appetite. However, the stress resulting from more than a day or two of exposure to these temperatures will quickly lead to disease and death. You can read more about axolotl diseases and their treatment on the Health Page.
The first symptoms of heat stress in axolotls include refusal of food and/or the development of pale patches of mucus-like material on the skin.If you are having difficulty maintaining the temperature of your axolotl's aquarium below 24 °C (75 °F), there are a few options to consider. The easiest short-term solution is to move the aquarium to a cooler part of the home. Remember, in every room, the temperature at ground level will be at least 1-2 °C (3-5 °F) cooler than high up on a shelf. In the summer, the same rule holds true for a house as a whole: the lower rooms in the house (or the basement) will be cooler than rooms on higher floors. So, moving the aquarium may easily allow you to reduce the temperature in your axolotl tank from 26 °C to 23 °C. Such a temperature change could make the difference between your axolotl living and dying.
Water flow is usually caused by a filter or when you use an air pump on an aquarium. Output from a filter can cause significant flow and this is perhaps the most common cause of stress in axolotls. Excessive water flow will, sooner or later, lead to disease.
Here are several approaches to minimise concentrated water flow, such as that typical of a filter's outflow:
If the filter has a built-in facility to reduce the flow, use it.
Use a spray bar. Either make one from a piece of tubing that has had holes drilled in it, or buy a proprietary spray bar kit, the longer the better. Orientate it against the glass so that water force is lessened. An aquarium equipped with such a system is depicted and described on the Housing Page.
Angle the filter so that the water flow is aimed at a glass side of the tank.
Angle the filter so that the water flow is directed upwards towards the water's surface.
Partially obstruct the filter's output using a piece of filter wool, or a home-made device, such as a piece of filter tube. Be careful not to obstruct the output nozzle too much, as this may cause your filter's motor and impellor to wear rapidly.
Consider using a smaller or different filter.
For More INFO go to:
Axolotls - Health & Diseases
Hope it helps
Sai Samara
