Probably, but it depends on the species. When mixing, you need to have much more precise questions and information. Animals should share climate, but occupy different microhabitats or have different diets. None should be generalists large enough to swallow cohabitants, although certain small aposematic species may be safe. If you have a diurnal terrestrial species, consider arboreal, fossorial, aquatic, or nocturnal terrestrial species. That way they use different parts of the environment, or use them at different times.
Keep in mind that in captivity we generally provide environments that are far too small. A terrestrial species in the wild may perch several feet up in bushes, which would put it higher than we even offer to a captive arboreal species. Larger cages are better in this respect.
Again, while diets may differ appreciably in the wild, the choices in captivity may not. Where diet is concerned, I would say that the old line of "they'll compete for food" is nonsense: Animals of the SAME species will compete far more than animals of different species, so just feed them enough, and offer at different times of day if need be.
Also keep in mind that animals which occur within a mile of each other in the wild may live in radically different climates. The frog from the mountain ridge may be cool and damp ALL the time, and may even experience snow, while the one a short distance downstream is living in hot and seasonal forest with a distinct dry season.
Last, there's the question of interbreeding, although this tends to go hand in hand with other concerns. Species are most likely to interbreed if they are closely related and are normally physically isolated from one another in the wild. Being isolated means they never have to decide whether a mate is suitable, so put them together and the physical barrier is gone.
On the other hand, in poison frogs, geographic isolation also tends to go with changes in reproductive methods, changes in size, and changes in climate and habitat. I wouldn't mix any Dendrobates, although D.leucomelas and D.tinctorius may occur together in the wild. You could probably mix some Dendrobates with some Oophaga, Ranitomeya, Andinobates, Ameerega, Allobates, or others. Personally, I would prefer to mix them only if they naturally occur together. For instance, Oophaga pumilio, Andinobates claudiae, and Dendrobates auratus probably occur together.
By comparison, Mantella expectata, Mantella betsileo, Mantella viridis, and Mantella ebenaui all occur in hot and fairly arid lowlands most of the time. Mantella aurantiaca, M.crocea, M.milotympanum, M.madagascariensis, M.baroni, and M.cowani normally occur in fairly cool and damp highlands - sometimes places where temperatures approach freezing at night. Despite being the same genus, they may not have similar habitats.
You'll have to evaluate your caging and the species you're considering. Personally, I never make recommendations out of the blue. It makes more sense to research what you're interested in, and then decide if it's appropriate; than it is to pick the "perfect" animal at random from 10000 species, and discover it's expensive, unkeepable, protected, or just not available.
I would really suggest against it. keep it in the same species and morph to avoid hybridization.
(if I read that correctly) especially in a 10 gallon. Different darts come from different places and have different needs behaviors etc. It really is like salamanders and newts they are all different and having a 10 gallon is not going to give them enough space to even try to give each other space if they wanted to. Enough space would be something huge, like maybe an entire room?
I would check out dendroboard for dart frog questions. Forum specifically for dart frogs like caudata is for salamanders and newts. Especially about mixing species, they will be able to tell you more and better than me. I'm still a n00b to darts but wouldn't dream of mixing them.
Also the dyeing dart frog is a dendrobate tinctorius ( I'm getting a pair of these) where the bumble bee is a dendrobate Leucomelas. I know that the tinc females are very territorial and aggressive and will kill other females. Its just an example of some behavior that is not consistent across the 2 species another reason to avoid mixing them.
I'm almost sure that if you ask this on the dendroboard they will say if you really want 2 different frogs set up 2 different vivariums.
I see dying frogs and salamanders kept at the wrong temperature in tiny boxes at the shows all the time, but I never buy them. If you mean that you want to know if you can put D. azures and D. tinctorus together, they are basically different color morphs of the same species(although scientist like to change classification systems back and forth) and will interbreed. You will get new offspring all throughout the year, but frog people won't want, even for free!
Ok I’m new so I have a pink Axolotl and it’s a baby like two three max inches and it eats from the top and it has now been floating a while now should I be worried ?? The other one is at the bottom of the tank and the tail isint hoocked or the gills aren’t curved flowerd they seem relaxed
Hi I recently rescued a lotl (i did weeks of research before rescuing) Hes mabey 5 or 6 years of age..the previous owner could not remember the exact age of him. I got him from her as he was or had been picked on by his tank mate another lotl who was bough with him from every younger age, I noticed one of his gills, a middle one at the end had split in two? And is slightly more floppy? He also appears or mabey I'm just over worried to mabey have lost some feathers, is that normal to lose some?...all levels in the tank are fine, but wondered if theres and advice anyone could give me as an experienced owner to a new one.
@Lanalotl Sounds like the gills may have been nipped by the tank mate. If he is in his own tank and the parameters etc are all good, then he should grow them back and they should go back to full health and strength. However, depending on how old the injury is they may not fully grow back if they have been constantly nipped at.
Can anyone tell me why this is happening? We just did a water change and after freaking out and whipping around the tank, an hour later they look like this. It won't let me send a pic. The edges of their gills are white and it looks like they have skin shedding off
It sounds like something went wrong with the water change, so this could be very dangerous. Did you use a dechlorinator? Could it be there are traces of chlorine or soap in the water? (Or for example, in the bucket you used?)
Normally, I would recommend taking them out of the tank asap and putting them in a tub with fresh water, but if there's something wrong with your tap water or dechlorinator, that might not help either. Do you have acces to bottled water or rain water?
I think my axie is dying, he’s never had any issues before, I’ve had him 3 years, today I noticed some fluffy looking stuff coming from his genital area so I took him out of his tank and did a full tank clean to make sure the water wasn’t infected as I thought it was fungus and then I noticed he had a cut on his belly which was only small about 5 hours ago and now it’s spread to all of his belly, what do I do I’m freaking out
Hi I have 2 4in juveniles (I’ve had them about 2 weeks and they are doing well I think they’ve grown a little already honestly) but I am supposed to go on a 5-6 day vacation in October about 3-4 months from now. I am wondering how I should go about their care when I am gone. I thought about putting them in separate (fairly big) containers with live plants and/or bubblers with a fan in the dark and either fridging them (my last plan) but I am hoping to to either have someone I trust come feed them and turkey baste waste out or just leave them out and clean the containers before we leave and have someone come check on them once or twice. Does any of this sound like a good or bad idea? I want the best for them. All help appreciated
Hi, so I have 2 male axolotls and about an hour ago they were both perfectly fine and now only one of them has his tail curling up and his gills are slightly curled?? But other than that they’re both acting normally
Does anyone have any idea how to help with high ammonia levels? I have the API freshwater master kit and everything else’s test results were great besides ammonia. I did a 50% water change and I use API products including ammonia lock.
Help! I got my first axolotl two days ago and they have stopped eating. They ate a few frozen blood worms the first day and haven’t eaten or been interested in food since. I feed them frozen blood worms and the tank is around 64 degrees. I do have a filter that moves sometimes and I noticed them swimming up to it, I have a new filter and a fan coming today or tomorrow. I leave the worms in the tank or a little bit before taking them out so I don’t know if they ate when I wasn’t looking. I know it takes a while for them to digest. Does anyone have any tips or knowledge they can share? The pet store I bought them from didn’t have gravel or sand in the tank so I’m not sure if theres an issue or if I’m just impatient. Thank you!
@MuggleMiChu I would say try live black/blood worms untell they are full or just turn there head away ( that's what mine do) if that does not work try to get some live brine shrimp and see if they eat that. baby axolotl prefer live food over frozen food as the frozen food is too cold for them or they can't eat it in one go( that's if you do the blocks) mine eat chopped up frozen thawed shrimp. as for them not eating from what I have experienced with my second axolotl, I got her when she was about an inch long and she ate every day, when they start getting 3-4 inches long they will gradually slow down there eating. and if you really want to do substrate I would do sand because if they do ingest a little bit it won't hurt them.