You can use your fingers and remove them gently by breaking the connection point between the egg and whatever it's attached too. Just don't add too much pressure on the egg itself. I would absolutely not start with 100 eggs. I was told there's about a 25% survival rate so I kept 100 eggs and was shocked and overwhelmed when they all survived. It's much more work with hatching BBS and water changes than people (myself included) first expect. Then, you end up with 100 juveniles that you have a very hard time placing. I would highly suggest starting with maybe 10-15 and go from there. You can always buy more eggs if and when you're ready for more. That's easier than ending up overwhelmed. Just my opinion.
Hi!
As Lori said, handling by hand is totally fine, the eggs are pretty sturdy because of their gel coating. The hardest part is gently scraping them off the aquarium plant and rocks without squeezing the eggs. You can use a finger nail, or a blade and just scrape across the surface. Whenever possible just allow the eggs to hatch while still attached. (They don't take long to hatch, maybe 2 weeks tops depending on water temp).
And another note on the other piece Lori added. I made the same mistake and kept too many babies. I kept about 150 eggs, and about 145 hatched healthy! This did allow me to make selections of the ones that hatched. It was a hard decision, but of the ones I wasn't able to give away I chose only the healthiest to rear and the rest were culled early on.
Hope that helps
Would Chinese fire belly newts be more or less inclined towards an aquatic eft set up versus Japanese . I'm raising them and have abandoned the terrarium at about 5 months old and switched to the aquatic setups you describe. I'm wondering if I could do this as soon as they morph?
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