froggy
Site Contributor
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2002
- Messages
- 1,779
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- Age
- 35
- Location
- Manchester, England
- Country
- United Kingdom
- Display Name
- Chris Michaels
Hi all,
Here are a few phone pics of my juvenile Salamandrella - I didn't breed them, but intend to breed from these once they mature. At the moment they are between 4 and 5 cm long.
They seem to feed best and be most active at about 15C. Higher than 17C and they start looking stressed. At the 8-10C that they are kept at now, they are still quite active, but eat less regularly. I have finally found an upside to my shoddily built back door (rented property), which keeps the floor area around it at 5C without insulation and 8-10C with a draught excluder.
They will take almost any prey items, but particularly like small earthworms and crickets. When they are hungry they can put on quite a turn of speed to catch a cricket, particularly when kept at 15-16C.
I keep them in a glass tank that is slightly tilted (maybe 10 degree slope) with paper towel covering 2/3 of the floor. The uncovered end is the lowest end, which is filled with cold water until the paper towel becomes soaked by capillary action. On top of the paper towel I lay a sheet of moss and some dead leaves. The sals burrow into the moss or hide beneath it or the dead leaves. They occasionally go into the shallow water and will take live bloodworm while they are there.
This is how I raised Hynobius dunni juveniles (though at warmer temperatures) and seems to work well for juvenile hynobiids.
A couple have a slight kink in the tail, which they had when I got them. The kinks are slowly straightening out with an earthworm heavy diet.
C
Here are a few phone pics of my juvenile Salamandrella - I didn't breed them, but intend to breed from these once they mature. At the moment they are between 4 and 5 cm long.
They seem to feed best and be most active at about 15C. Higher than 17C and they start looking stressed. At the 8-10C that they are kept at now, they are still quite active, but eat less regularly. I have finally found an upside to my shoddily built back door (rented property), which keeps the floor area around it at 5C without insulation and 8-10C with a draught excluder.
They will take almost any prey items, but particularly like small earthworms and crickets. When they are hungry they can put on quite a turn of speed to catch a cricket, particularly when kept at 15-16C.
I keep them in a glass tank that is slightly tilted (maybe 10 degree slope) with paper towel covering 2/3 of the floor. The uncovered end is the lowest end, which is filled with cold water until the paper towel becomes soaked by capillary action. On top of the paper towel I lay a sheet of moss and some dead leaves. The sals burrow into the moss or hide beneath it or the dead leaves. They occasionally go into the shallow water and will take live bloodworm while they are there.
This is how I raised Hynobius dunni juveniles (though at warmer temperatures) and seems to work well for juvenile hynobiids.
A couple have a slight kink in the tail, which they had when I got them. The kinks are slowly straightening out with an earthworm heavy diet.
C
